A&Q about 350Z
Q:
If a stock 350 Z can do 0 - 60 mph in 5.7 seconds what would you suppose the same Z, with the same driver would do 0 - 60 mph with the APS TT? Same question for the APS single turbo. Thanks.
2003 Redline Touring
A:
1.2 secs-lol i really dont know
i would guess it would drop to around 4
93 z32 convertible=pearl white, 5 speed
jwt pop-charger, hks hypers, asp underdrive pulley
86 z31 na=super white, 5 speed
A:
yea somewhere around 4 secs... if it runs the 1/4 in around 12 secs, 60 times should be near 4 secs. The new Z06 runs the 1/4 in 12 flat with a 3.9 0-60 time. Im not really sure what kind of 1/4 time potential the APS has though, depends on what kind of boost you're running
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03 CS Touring
VIN #189
A:
0-60 times with turbos don't usually depend on anything but how quickly the turbos spool up and the driver of the car. With a good driver who can properly launch the car, you'll have a much better 0-60 time than the stock 350Z. If you don't know how to launch a boosted car though, you're 0-60 times will probably not be that vastly different.
Although the APS kit will probably spool up pretty fast anyway, its still actually takes a good driver to launch the car properly to avoid the lag.
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1985 300ZX n/a
A:
OK so tell me this...
How do you properly launch a boosted car (in a 100 words or less)? I am asking because I want to learn, not to be smart.
Previously owned: 2005 Z Enthusiast, Super Black, 6 spd.
Currently lease: 2006 Pathfinder S, Silver, Auto
"She is (and always will be) my little deuce coupe, you don't know what I got!"
A:
I remember that issue of Road & Track. I read all the results; 0-60, 1/4 mile and such and then I read what it cost to build those cars. The amount of money spent versus the results was definately NOT worth it.
2005 350Z Touring Roadster - Super Black - 6speed
Borla Exhaust and K&N drop-in.
Other toys include:
2006 Subaru WRX Wagon
2002 Isuzu Axiom SUV
2002 H-D Electra Glide Ultra Classic
2002 H-D custom Fat Boy
2001 Kawasaki Drifter 1500
A:
I think everyone is making a LOT of good points. I think I personally can hit right at 4 seconds flat. Bear in mind my car will be running 11.5 psi boost with APS twin Ts, APS hi flow plenum, now maybe the 3" exhaust and hi flow cats(this exhaust set up vs. 2.5" and test pipes is being discussed right now and subject to change), and about 450 hp at the wheels (540 engine hp) running drag radials and will be set up to pull about 3 psi just sitting there at the line. So I will come off the line under boost and those new Garrett GT turbos spool incredibley fast.
I should run mid to high 11 sec. quarters at 125 mph or better based on what other APS TTs are running compared to my setup. I know what boost they are running and all. I can give you a number of high 11 sec. qtrs. with other APS TTs out there.
4 seconds flat 0 to 60 is what I pulled with my HKS stage VI mitsu eclipse awd turbo with 1.7 sixty foot times pulling just over 1 g coming off the line (that felt damn good!) and I should run 1.6 to 1.7 sec. sixty foot times with my drag radials with my APS TT 350Z. So basically I am predicting about he same 0 to 60 with my 350Z running drag radials as the AWD eclipse. My Z should accelerate a good deal quicker than the eclipse after the launch I predict. Now these are just estimates based on experience and a lot things. It will be interesting to see if I can hit these goals at the drag strip. You can't fool the electric eye.
I am running 2.0 sixty ft times. 13.9 sec. qtrs, pure stock engine, stock 17 in. tires, with the tranny modified.
The APS TT kit is $7490 but that includes a lot including including intercooler, twin cold air intakes, larger 500 cc fuel injectors, APS unichip engine managment system, fuel return system, hi performance fuel pump, oversized oil pan with cooling vents, and insulated crank angle sensor wire. Install is $3000 grand, but I am going to the best, you can probably get it a little cheaper elsewhere. I can look up cost (on statement) the plenum and and 2.5 " exhaust and 2.5 " test pipes if anybody cares, but the exhuast may change is the deal. So yes it aint cheap but the problem with 350Z forced induction has been trying to get by on the cheap, IMO. This is not cheap but a mid 11 sec. car is worth it IMO. I will also be running the APS replacment strut tower brace as well for the APS pleunum. It doesn't cost much I can get my statement out and look up cost if anybody cares.
The TT is probably going to run a little quicker than the single T in the quarter set up about the same (including psi) way with stock engine internals (like mine) just from the faster spool up (single T has more restriction with its crossover pipe and the single turbo is located farther from exhaust manifold than TTs), but as many of you said there are many factors. My TT exhaust (expecially the 3") will also flow more air. At the same boost psi, the APS TTs move more air and generate more power and top end in the quarter. (For reference at 16 psi the APS TTs flow 82 lbs. air per minute vs. 65 lbs air per minute for the single T.
Post Edited (Jan 26, 6:28pm)
A:
"How do you properly launch a boosted car (in a 100 words or less)? I am asking because I want to learn, not to be smart."
Depends on the car, the amount of boost, and the turbo lag. Ideally, you would want to launch the car by revving the engine to a point after which boost has kicked in so you don't have to wait the lag time for the boost to kick in. You also don't want to just pop the clutch and spin the tires, properly launching a burns as little rubber as possible while still taking off as fast as possible. Spinning the tires is actually detrimental to fastest possible take off times.
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1985 300ZX n/a
A:
Going down to just below 5s is hard, but every 0.1s after that takes big power. It's not a linear relationship... you need major power and grip, and probably some suspension changes. I think 4s is expecting too much... 4.5s is probably possible...
A:
There is a MASSIVE difference between running a 5.0 and 4.0 0-60. You realize the fastest street cars IN THE WORLD are in the high 3 second range and many cost half a million dollars. Sport bikes are hard to get in the 3.5-3.9 range 0-60. This doesn't include modified cars obviously. We are talking hundreds of horsepower difference to acheive that. If you want to see where power increases produce a more linear relationship to acceleration, do a 40-100 or 60-120mph test.
Don't scrutinize a car's performance so easily based on the damn 0-60.
19[TT]91
My TT beauty is gone.
2[00]2 Honda 954RR
Suzuki 1200 S; sportscar eater
19[I4]94 Integra GSR Sedan
Long live the Z...
aka SAHTT
A:
I absolutely agree with you! 0 to 60 is mostly a function of traction. What happens AFTER 60 mph is power and peformance.
My eclipse turbo awd (highly modified) was incredibly fast off the line (5000 rpm awd launch) and that carried over to super quick 0 to 60, and pretty fast thereafter, but my buddy with a Z32 TT (highly modified) could catch me in 3 rd gear and then leave me for dead, ha! Hey mine was just a 2L 4 banger.
True dragsters can accelerate 0 to 60 incredibly fast - top fuel does the whole qtr. mile in 4 seconds, but true dragsters are horrible for anything else - they can just barely make the turn from the pits to the staging lanes without throwing up their cookies, ha, but true.
Post Edited (Jan 27, 3:47pm)
A:
"How do you properly launch a boosted car (in a 100 words or less)? I am asking because I want to learn, not to be smart."
I can tell you one little trick I used. But it took lots and lots and lots of practice. I had a manual tranny. I had a little trick to staging the car that ensured that I did not have to sit there reving my engine while the other guy staged. It would be hard to explain it here and my posts are too long anyway, ha. But...the fact I could do that made the next part possible that may be helpful to you. I would rev to 5000 rpms (zero or neg boost showing) for my awd luanch, and time it so that just before I started engaging the clutch, my foot was again pushing the pedal on toward the floor causing the rpms to jump toward 6000.... and that caused the boost to blip toward positive boost - may 3 or 4 psi...Get real good at timing that just right and you can engage the clutch with the boost already rising and that momentum in the turbo would cause the boost to spike virtually instantaneously as you launch. If you get this right, you come off the line with an explosion of boost. If you do it right you come off the line like a bat outta hell. This would only work on a 350Z turbo if you had real good drag radials or slicks for mucho traction IMO. This may be kinda worthless on street tires on the street. But just in case any of you do drag race - this is just something you can play around with and try if you have the inclination.
Bear in mind I also had a monster clutch custom built by the owner of Midway Industries. He made a bet that he could build a clutch I could not tear up. He was right as it turned out - serious giggles! Very hard to push this clutch to the floor and hold it even though it was hydraulic. But when that SOB of a clutch locked up, there was noooooo slipping at all. I think they have improved clutches so that this would not be so hard to push down at the present.
Everyone has little pet strategies to launch so you may not like this. I did not really even just up and one day try this. As you do many many turbo luanches over some time, I just refined my launch just kind of naturally to do this. This kept the engine from bogging AT ALL, but did not overpower the wheels at the same time. You have to develop a feel for it over time. It was a nice smooth and very powerful launch. If this technique appeals to you, don't feel like a dufus if you try it and F it up several times. Just keep it in the back of your head, and I swear, as you perfect the smoothness of your launch, you will just naturally get to where you do this more and more. It is like riding a bike. As you ride and gain experience, your balance and touch just improves. And unless you've screwed up launches, then you haven't really drag raced, ha. So don't feel like the Lone Ranger if you screw up some. If you don't experiment and refine, you also won't ever get real good. Having said all that, some guys on this website may be a lot better than me at it. It is still fun even if one is not the best, IMO
With a racing autotranny, you can set up the stall speed and the tranny guy can do some things that allow you to powerbrake and get 3 or 4 psi boost just BEFORE you launch so that you come off the line under boost. Which also results in the boost spiking real real fast just as you want. This is also fun.
In my opinion, a bad day racing is better than a good day at work. There is just nothing like nitromethane (I did not run it, ha) at the drag strip to clear your sinuses in the moringing and make one feel truly alive.... and they say men aren't sensitive....sniff sniff......
Post Edited (Jan 27, 4:30pm)
A:
i've heard of some guys using the parking brake at the line while slipping the clutch in so that it's building boost while satged, when the light turns green, they release the hand brake and floor it letting the clutch out the rest o the way. I think those that did this had multiple disc clutches, so it makes it a little easier.
My guardian angel has twin turbos. . .
1995 Cobalt Green NA
1988 Maroon 300ZX NA (sold)
A:
^^^If you feel like replacing clutches after every other race then this is a great method. Even with a two or three disc clutch you're going to fry the living hell out of it using that method.
If you're sponsored by clutchmasters or exedy or something and clutches are free, then why not? but for the rest of us who have to pay $400 or more for a decent performance clutch, we may want to avoid this method.
Here's what I used to do. My dad used to have a 3000GT VR4, I learned how to drive on it. To take off as fast as possible I would do this: rev the engine to about 3.5-4K. I would quickly pop the clutch halfway and then push it back to the floor just to get the car to roll forward (overcomes the static friction, helps prevent spinning if the wheels are already turning). Then I would quickly pop the clutch just until it grabbed, slam the gas pedal to the floor and let the clutch go out entirely. The whole process would take literally a quarter of a second. There was a little jolt, then a big jolt a split second later and I was off.
Its almost like a double-clutching type manouver. It takes practice but if you do it extremely quickly it works very well. I've played around with other methods as well but this is the one I use the most.
As MorePower stated, everybody has their own little technique with launching a car.
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1985 300ZX n/a
Post Edited (Jan 28, 12:18am)