Got to wash the car today.

General Chat

Q:

I know, it sounds crazy, but I have gotten to see the progression of dirt and dust over the last year while the car was down. I am just very happy I am able to drive the car now and listen to the stereo.
This one was wearing on me for a long time and now it is finished.
The last thing left is the tune, the car is running lean at points in the RPM range. I got the tune from JWT that Calrk did for Mark Leaders car. Very close to mine, just not all the goodies, and really I am glad it is running lean, the car is going to be an animal no question about it. Running lean @ 8 psi of boost LOL LOL, Marks car was tuned to 30psi of boost LOL LOL total animal, and it looks and drives like a normal car that has a good paint job and nice wheels, BUT when you nail it, HOLD on to your hat!
signed pseudotechnician view point, Sniper S^$ker, with girly arms : UCC 1-207
A:

Nothin' beats the look of a sweet Z after a good wash followed by a nice drive through the twisties!
Congrats' Jeff!
72 WooHoo!! In good shape too...
72 Rolling Chassis (RB or LS1?)
80 NA SCCA ST2/CP (Car + Tree = Dead)
82 NA 3.0L the rust monster got it
82 ZXT 3.1L, 25psi! Hit in the right rear. ;(
83 parts car
92 TT Sold! ;(
02 Looking for an '03 made in '02
A:

Congratulations Jeff !!!!
Real nice Fall day for a car wash too, lol !
You've got the patients of a saint to patiently plan, produce, and persevere on your build.
Oh Jeff, and thanks for sharing the tid bits of info on L-series camshafts. As I understand it, that it would be or is also applicable to even a stock ground cam as well, when performing the installation and timing of new valvetrain components during a rebuild or complete overhaul ?
Z,
Kevin
Triple 77s, one for work, one for play and one on the way.
Post Edited (Dec 10, 4:55pm)
A:

Hi Kevin, yes that applies to the stock cam as well. I took a look at my data again, I was getting about 5-10 degrees of duration per thousands of gap. That is not bad, but it is the lobe centers that become critical.
here are a few links to give you something to think about and a quicky calculator.
http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/101/Cam_Theory.html
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/camshaft.html
I also have an old article by Racer Brown that deals specifically with the Datsun/Nissan camshafts and the L Series engines. Very good read if you are interested, let me know.
I had some problems with my electric fan and water pump power source setup. The car almost over heated. But I got it going to get it home. I am working on and testing a new relay right now. I am loading it to 22 Amps, and testing a new fuse holder at the same time. Seems the stock Nissan part that is rated for 30 Amps doesn't come close to sustaining that kind of current load. I think this new setup will workout, but I am going to burn it for a number of hours and check the heat the relay is getting up to. The new relay is rated for 40 Amps, but it is getting a little hot @ 22 Amps, not unmanageable at this point in the test, but lets see how it does for 8 hours of operation.
This car really makes me do everything with about a 50% design headway more often time then not, damn thing LOL, but hey it's Zelda, and Zelda demands nothing less then perfection, little sucker.
signed pseudotechnician view point, Sniper S^$ker, with girly arms : UCC 1-207
A:

"It's a GOOD DAY for Jeff!" Good deal for America! Gas stocks just climbed a "tick", he-he. Norm K.
Norman Krell
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