General Chat
Q:
I have been working on the car and FINALLY was able to fire it up. I did get the distributor drive off one tooth, every time I install the drive, So I got that squared away.
I ran the car at idle, and I do have a little fine tuning to do to get the bypass air valve to give me the desired span of rpm range, but not to hard to fix.
I shut the engine down, and it is hissing somewhat. I think what the heck is that noise, and I thought I had an intake leak. I was incorrect, the TURBO was still spinning, and pumping a significant amount of air I might add.
Seems, the turbo is providing enough air at idle to provide the engine with more then enough air at idle. I took the hose from the cold idle valve, and the turbo was pushing more air out of the compressor outlet to give a distinct flow of air out the leak caused by removing the hose.
This turbo is going to spool like I dont know what.
I wasnt able to drive the car yet as I was getting the fuel management squared away, and not having a easy time of it. Then it dawned on me that this was a new ECU and program, so the ECU had zero data on how it should run for my engine. I have to drive the car to get the data to the ECU for memory. So I guess I have to drive it a little before I cvan finish the bypass air. hurt me hurt me LOL.
signed pseudotechnician view point, Sniper S^$ker, with girly arms : UCC 1-207
A:
WOW!~ thats insane!!! Im sure it will SCREAM! very nice! be sure to post your driving impressions when you get it out for a quick jaunt around the block! Excellent
McAdam
1980 280zx with a mildly ported N47 maxima head, 60mm TB, -C- stamp 256 degree camshaft, and a 2.5inch mandrel bent exhaust. yeah, its quick, and yeah, its a 2+2. NOW with MSandS_E power!
A:
Jeff
Does the tensioner make any kind of noise such as any "singing" sounds. Mine is still in the box waiting for the time to build my next motor.
SPEED IS MY DRUG OF CHOICE..LET ME DRIVE!
A:
what turbo do you have on it this time?lol
Automotive Painter
83 280ZXT(Traded)
76 280 z(soon to be ZT)
A:
Remember to WEIGH IT before you get too rambunctious, I will come over with the G-Tech, and you wan make a few "testing runs"...
It will be nice for you to show up at MSA and run on the dyno during the show in April...
Maybe that will be what you need to do a Mongoose Number on "The Z-Viper"
Come to think of it, your car does have a "Mongoose Brown" hue to it... I just don't remember Purple Cobras....
Muahahahaha!
People Are Idiots, Just look around here and you will see!
Tony D: "Knowledgeable but Caustic"... rationull
My brother from another mother calls himself "Willie D"
A:
Jeff, what are you running for a fuel managament system now? Did you swap out the JWT unit??
Phil
1981 280zxt
5-speed conversion,3.9 R200,Eibach springs,Tokico struts,Energy Suspension,K&N CAI,AutoMeter A/F, Boost, Fuel Gauges,Cusco Strut Bar,Greddy B Spec II boost control,Jeffp 3in mandrel exhaust,Magnaflow,Spearco Cooler, HKS BOV, 10 psi
A:
wtf! a ecu has to learn how to operate things when new?
73' 240z: F54 4.2L, OS Giken LY DOHC Crossflow head, 17:3comp.ratio, N33, Tripple SU's, T10 Hybrid Draw-Through TT @ 47pds, Roots&Centrifugal Type supercharger, 3-2-1 headers, Centerforce 4 clutch, 6oz flywheel, R300 differential, Super-Hicas
A:
The new ECU's when disconnected from the battery for more than a few seconds will "loose" volatile prom memory that stored operating parameters and things it "learned" while driving around.
To get the car to run better from the factory defaults, this is how they were setup. OEM's realized each car is different, and a "learning" ECU within limits is the best way to do things, and keep it running with maximum efficiency and power (as well as lowest emissions) for the maximum time.
With the Z31 ECU, it learns. The RB series does it, too. Most do since about 85.
People Are Idiots, Just look around here and you will see!
Tony D: "Knowledgeable but Caustic"... rationull
My brother from another mother calls himself "Willie D"
A:
<Does the tensioner make any kind of noise such as any "singing" sounds>
Yes, it almost sounds like the engine is turning a blower. I am still not to use to it.
<what turbo do you have on it this time>
The turbo ia a GT35R ball bearing turbo, with the .63 A/R exhaust turbine housing.
<Jeff, what are you running for a fuel managament system now? Did you swap out the JWT unit??>
Phil, I am still running a Nissan ECU. I have been working with Calrk for some time on a 600Hp setup. This took for ever, but it is complete now. Let me know if you are interested in my old setup. I decided to just get a new ECU and use that one, so I still have the injectors, fuel rail, ECU, MAF and some of the plumbing. I had to rebuild all of that stuff AGAIN, what a pain in the butt.
<wtf! a ecu has to learn how to operate things when new?>
YES, that is correct, the ECU does have a learn function, aside from the basic, well not real basic, fuel/air metering the ECU will log the operating parameters, and store them in volitile memory. Then when you shut the engine down, the ECU stays on for 5 seconds, and checksums the current parameters and stores them for the next time the car is started. Like I have been saying all along, the STOCK Nissan ECU is a very nice unit. The only thing that sucks is there are VERY limited numbers of people who have the ability to tune them, but that is about to change.
<Remember to WEIGH IT before you get too rambunctious>
Yes Tony, I will get the car weighed. I just have to finish up the minor details, like getting the bypass air to give me the correct rpm span, right now, the car idles @ 500-550 RPM's so it makes it hard to drive because it likes to stall because it idles so low. I have to finish that up.
I did take the car off blocks tonight. I drove it around the block one time, all I have to say is it is tight. I think I need to bleed the brakes because I had to losten the fron brake lines when I was working on that area also, no biggie. I had to bleed the clutch, I think the slave cylinder is not as good as it could be, but what do you expect from a junk yard part. I had to hone the crap out of it. I realize MSA sells a slave cylinder, but I am not sure if it is the adjustable one like on the older 240 cars. That unit has a provision in the casting for the return spring for the clutch arm, where the majority of them do not have that.
The car felt good, I did not want to drive it to much in the dark.
Here are some pictures of the engine compartment.
http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/images9/engine.jpg
http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/images9/engine1.jpg
http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/images9/engine2.jpg
Pay no attention to all of the dust LOL the car has been sitting for about a year this time, crazy aint it. I was really starting to get in a very bad mood about it, so I had to drive it just one time. I have to finish up all of the detail work like I said, but it is almost there.
I was surprised how fast it gets up to temp, seems like it took a little longer, but who knows. I forgot the collant capacity is nearly 3 gallons now. I will drive it when I get the idle circuit working the way I want it, whats the rush LOL what is a few more days.
anyway, thats about it for now.
signed pseudotechnician view point, Sniper S^$ker, with girly arms : UCC 1-207
A:
Yikes, ill just stick with my carburetors!
73' 240z: F54 4.2L, OS Giken LY DOHC Crossflow head, 17:3comp.ratio, N33, Tripple SU's, T10 Hybrid Draw-Through TT @ 47pds, Roots&Centrifugal Type supercharger, 3-2-1 headers, Centerforce 4 clutch, 6oz flywheel, R300 differential, Super-Hicas
A:
"I think the slave cylinder is not as good as it could be, but what do you expect from a junk yard part."
JUNK YARD PART ON JEFFP'S ENGINE!?!?!?!?!?!?!
Everybody into the shelter, END OF DAYS IS COMING!
You sure you couldn't find one in stainless steel from a vendor in Lower Japonica to use instead....at a cost of only $1500?
LOL
People Are Idiots, Just look around here and you will see!
Tony D: "Knowledgeable but Caustic"... rationull
My brother from another mother calls himself "Willie D"
A:
I think I talked about that with you Tony didn't I. I could not find the correct cylinder at the time, and one day walking through the junk yard there it was on a tranny that was sitting on the ground. I could not resist LOL. So I bought the kit to rebuild it and all total it cost me about 30.00 then one day looking through the MSA catalog, there it was for 20.00 go figure.
I have slept on the idle issue and I am going to see if I can get a 1/4" NPT screw valve in stainless and see about that. The other option is to mod the fast idle when cold valve to get that little extra air into the engine, and then use the setup I have now for the fine adjustment.
I want to drive it, but it really needs a wash really bad, and I want to keep it close to home for a few runs. I am still not convinced the weld job on the radiator will hold, just call me chicken it's alright LOL.
I have a second fast idle valve I can mod and see how that works. If not, then it's making the 1/8" NPT hole bigger to 1/4" NPT and figure out how I am going to keep all the shavings out of my engine, and take the TB off to do it. Pain in the butt!
signed pseudotechnician view point, Sniper S^$ker, with girly arms : UCC 1-207
A:
"I want to drive it, but it really needs a wash really bad."
After all the work you've done on your car Jeff, I find it funny that you feel that you need to wash it before you test drive it!! The car's got to look good too!!
Phil
1981 280zxt
5-speed conversion,3.9 R200,Eibach springs,Tokico struts,Energy Suspension,K&N CAI,AutoMeter A/F, Boost, Fuel Gauges,Cusco Strut Bar,Greddy B Spec II boost control,Jeffp 3in mandrel exhaust,Magnaflow,Spearco Cooler, HKS BOV, 10 psi
A:
You know that we are great friends, but I have to ask.
Mild porting
Stock Intake
GT35R(.63 a/r)
600hp?????
Good Luck!!
--------------------
www.SpeedShopThagard.com
Garrett Turbo Dealer
3.1L TwinTurbo L28
10.62@134.1
A:
You have seen how nice my idle circuit looks...
Those valves are easily adapted to take 1/4" npt's, so you can plumb it in Stainless Steel Braided Lines...
A-N all the way...
Gaaarrrrgggh! Stainless....
I see the junkyard scenario in the following way:
Dreary jnkyard, overcast and slightly chilly and damp. Jeff turns the corner, and the clouds part, and a ray of warming light floods down on the slave cylinder bathing it in the warm light from the heaves while in the background chiors of angels hum hymns.
"Ta-DA! Forsooth and anon, my quest doth be vanquished, my searcheth be at an end, my slave cylinder approacheth!" sayeth JeffP...
People Are Idiots, Just look around here and you will see!
Tony D: "Knowledgeable but Caustic"... rationull
My brother from another mother calls himself "Willie D"
A:
I have seen it, if he doesn't wash that thing before going on-boost, everything back of the bumper will be SANDBLASTED by the accumulation on the car.
Not good to hit the gas and then have your windshield frosted form debris flying off the hood into the glass!
LOL
People Are Idiots, Just look around here and you will see!
Tony D: "Knowledgeable but Caustic"... rationull
My brother from another mother calls himself "Willie D"
A:
James, "mild porting" not exactly, obviously you have not been keeping up with the changes I have done to the engine.
The cylinder head has been reworked by B.C. Gerolomy. In fact I had some very specific work completed on the head, that I dont think has been done for quite a long time. But enough of that, I will have some dyno sheets here in a few weeks if all goes well, but when does it.
I have a new cam grind for the head, Stainless steel valves with an oversize exhaust valve, the exhaust is flowing 160 CFM now @ 25" the intake has stayed about the same. The intake has been extrude honed, but I did not get as good as results as I would have liked, but still I will get to what I want. Gerolomy did the competition port on the head. I instructed him to leave the valve guides stock. but enough said.
Bear in mind with the old head/cam combination I was getting 498 Hp at the flywheel and basically ran out of turbo (TO4E)
I have gotten a look at your Dyno results, I am not sure if they are current, but I do know they were results with your twin turbo setup. The one thing I was particularly interested in was not the horse power so much, but rather the torque the engine developed, and at what RPM you came up on power and the peek power of the setup. I would have liked to see a little better results, no stab at you or anything like that, but I was a little surprised that your engine did not make the torque numbers I was expecting.
signed pseudotechnician view point, Sniper S^$ker, with girly arms : UCC 1-207
A:
aftermarket intakes are not needed to make big power.
80 280zx 3.2 liter F.I. Stroker with a 150 shot of NOS! Im getting close to the end of this journey but I'll be back with VG30 Turbo Power!
A:
Jeff, I do now recall you where having BC attack the head. Post some pics if you can. GT35R, although a very nice turbo, does not flow too much at ~61lbs/min. You typically have to oversize the turbo to get more power on the L. If I were you I would honestly consider a GT42R for your setup. I guess when I think 600hp I think of this happening at the wheels. I suppose you are shooting for about 500hp@wheels, which puts you in the 600hp range. You may have seen TimZ recently laid down 509hp/464ft-lbs@wheels on pump gas and 23psi?
Also, the stock intake has got to go! It will never flow as well as a custom jobber and will limit high rpm power. You need an intake with larger tapered runners to maximize power on your setup. I am not knocking what you have done, but trying to help you realize your goal.
If you look at your past dyno graphs they made short peak power and then fell off very quickly. You lost 100hp@wheels from 4500-6500rpm. Your dyno numbers should stay the same or increase from 4500rpm to 6500rpm if it is dialed in correctly. You should be able to pull peak power out to 7500rpm.
As far as my motor making torque, show me someone else's L that dynoed 509ft-lbs@wheels without nitrous. My twins did not flow much more than your single GT35R, only about 66lbs/min for the pair. Also consider my head only flowed 200cfm on the intake ports at lifts higher than what I was running.
I'm not getting mad.
If you look at my dyno results power was over 410hp@wheels from 4200-7000 rpm. You will also notice AFR was balls rich across the board and peaked at 10.4:1. Unfortunately, I did not have my laptop with me at the dyno. However, I did later lean out the AFR based on this graph by computing VE changes. I figure it should have dynoed ~475-485@wheels with the proper AFR.
Also, this is being pushed through and automatic tranny which will always dyno lower than a stick car.
Anyway, just my $0.02. I want to see you reach your goal and am only trying to give you advise based on my experience and what I have seen others do. BTW, dyno graph below.
<img src="http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/dyno1.jpg">
--------------------
www.SpeedShopThagard.com
Garrett Turbo Dealer
3.1L TwinTurbo L28
10.62@134.1
Post Edited (Dec 9, 6:51am)