General Chat
Q:
Alright guys and gals. I am a proud owner of a 1976 280Z its a 4 speed manual and I need help. The car wont turn over and I've tried a couple of things. I replaced the spark plugs, the spark pluge wires, and the distriburtor cap. The compression runs normal and I'm about to replace the super coil. I have a hanse manual and I was just wondering if u guys/gals could help me out, any recomendations.
Greatly Appreaciated
A:
Welcome, but first things first, post this in the 70-83 tech forum instead, you'll get more help and less flaming there. Another tip, were going to need more info. The car wont turn over period? Dead battery? I get the feeling you mean it wont start but will turn over. Have you checked the rotor in the distributor. Are you getting spark at the cap? Check with the coil wire connected, remove one of the spark plug wires and stick a screwdriver in there, be careful not to touch the metal. Have somebody turn the motor over and see if you get a spark. Check for fuel delivery too.
'73 Turbo, not much stock. Sold now... :-(
A:
The battery isnt dead but me and my brother have tried to jump start it at least 20 times. And the engine wont turn over. The rotor in the distributor was just replaced it. And thanks for the tip.
A:
First of all, I assume you mean it won't fire, but WILL turn over.
Has the car run lately, or has it been sitting for a while?
If it has been sitting for a while, you most likely have a fuel problem. Either clogged injectors, a clogged filter, or just old, bad gas. Did you drain the tank and add new gas? Once you do that, put a clean fuel filter on and put a short piece of hose from the OUT port of the filter into a quart-sized jar. Now have someone turn the key to the ON position and check to see if you have fuel coming out. If not, check the pump, fuses, computer, etc per the Haynes manual until you get fuel. If you do have fuel, chances are good that your injectors are varnished shut or clogged with debris. If this is the case, you will need to removed the injectors and soak them in cleaner or send them out for cleaning. Next, try spraying starter fluid into the intake. Remove the airbox cover and pull the filter out. With the key off and the throttle held wide open, spray the starter fluid into the intake hose for a few seconds and try restarting. If it fires briefly, chances are good something in your fuel system is dirty. If all things mentioned above are ok, but it still won't fire, check for spark. Remove a spark plug and insert it into the plug wire then place the plug so that the ground strap is against something metal on the engine and turn the key to START. Look for spark and move the plug around if needed to get a good ground. If you have no spark, check the manual and proceed with looking at the coil and distributor.
If the car HAS been running recently, check to make sure you installed the spark plug wires in the right order and also check all of your connections. Repeat everything above only AFTER you check the obvious things that you touched after it was last running. Let us know what you find and we will give you further ideas.
Jeff
Northville, Michigan
'78 280 10:1 CR, Web Racing cam, Arizona Z Car header, urethane bushings, Tokico springs, Illumina struts, Panasports, Maxima alternator
A:
Wait, did you say it won't turn over as in the engine is locked, or does it spin, but not start? If the engine will not spin at all, the plugs and wires are the least of your problems. Then you said that the rotor and DISTRIBUTOR were just replaced. Did you mean distributor CAP? We need the right info before we can diagnose the problem.
Jeff
Northville, Michigan
'78 280 10:1 CR, Web Racing cam, Arizona Z Car header, urethane bushings, Tokico springs, Illumina struts, Panasports, Maxima alternator
A:
the distributor cap is replaced and it wont start, no clicking sound. I think it might be the distibutor though cause there was somthing in the Haynes manual that said it cant be a dual electric distributor but it has to be a mechanic for a manual(dual is for the automatic :-\)
A:
Did the car run before you started working on it?
If yes, you probably installed the plug wires wrong. If not, refer to my previous note and diagnose the problem.
Jeff
Northville, Michigan
'78 280 10:1 CR, Web Racing cam, Arizona Z Car header, urethane bushings, Tokico springs, Illumina struts, Panasports, Maxima alternator
A:
Check the EFI pulses with a "noid light" NK
Norman Krell
A:
Jared, from what I have read in your post you sound like you are saying the motor won't turn over with the starter motor when you turn the key. Sounds like your starter relay is hung up.
Try lightly tapping on it with a hammer and then try and restart the car again
Either replace the relay on top of the starter or just go buy a new starter which will also have a new relay already on it.
Later,Norm
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12.804 @ 107.26 mph on crappy street tires with Dual SU Powered 2.9L Stroker!
ZCAR.COM member since Aug 1998
A:
OK, to clarify the motor is turning over, but isn't starting. We just replaced the MSD super coil that was on it with a new stock replacement. Again, nothing. I think that we are going to try to check the fuel and spark today.
A:
Sorry I'm on the wrong forum. Is there a way for a moderator to move the thread?