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Finally got my engine project finished.
It's a 3.1L using standard 2.4L truck pistons, prepped 240 rods, LD crank, a light deck clean up cut and line bored/sonic tested F54 block. On top of this is a sunbelt race ported N42 head with modified combustion chambers, a colt cams 280 degree duration .510" lift cam on 111 lobe centers, titanium retainers, crane springs at 100lbs seat, stainless valves. The intake is the sunbelt one I've been using along with SDS and turbo 265min injectors and the exhaust is a jet hot coated 1.75 inch primary tube nismo header hooked to a 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust with a "wide open" magnaflow muffler. Just done a few short test drives and have yet to go dyno tune with a WBO2 but it seems to be making some good power! :-)
Here's a couple of shots of the engine bay that I had painted while the engine was out to match the car. Still have some detail work to do but the main work is finished.
Steve 77 280z, 3.1L, SDS w/turbo injectors, MSD, 280/.510cam, titanium retainers, Sunbelt-intake and head, Nismo1.75 headers, susp mods, toyo calipers etc etc.. my engine
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Screw the dyno, run that sucker down the Drag Strip and see how the car works as a SYSTEM, because thats all that matters, not just some dyno number on some uncalibrated dyno.
Lots of Z cars, 1970's-1983's.
1977, Megasquirt, 12.8@ 105, 1.70 60 Foot, 2940 LBS. Blake Machine Co, Phx, AZ http://bandmzcars.com http://blakemachineprojects.com http://www.zselect.com
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i like it.... :)
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Where did I say I wanted numbers? I want to tune it for best power under controlled conditions, that's what a dyno is for. And given I don't care about drag racing, why would I drag race it to tune it? I'm not building a drag car...
Steve 77 280z, 3.1L, SDS w/turbo injectors, MSD, 280/.510cam, titanium retainers, Sunbelt-intake and head, Nismo1.75 headers, susp mods, toyo calipers etc etc.. my engine
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Very nice....a billet fuel rail would clean up that intake area soo much though...stock rails are fugly
L28+megasquirt+turbo=Huge sh!t eating grin (or at least thats what im hoping)
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yep, a billet rail, and maybe an aluminum radiator too!!! regardless it looks great. on the dyno issue, I tried to tune my car for the better part of 6 months on the street, and got more done with far more consistent AFR numbers in a single two hour long dyno session... I'm not saying tuning on the street, or strip doesn't work, but man, tuning on a dyno sure is easier.
Looks great Steve, good luck with the tuning!
73 240z, turbo'd, haltech E6K, 550's, spearco. new and improved, now with 60-1 T4, 372 whp and 365wtq
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Dyno tune first so as to not make a fool of ones self in front of everyone at the track if it falls on its face. dyno tuning is cheap so there is no reason not to do it
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Very nice Steve, congratulations!
Have you got a heat shield under the intake runners? It may help to keep your intake temps down. Love the intake.
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Whats that black thing on your hood release latch? (nice engine by the way)...
1976 280z 2+2 - Risen from the dead - garaged since 1988. Pallnet Fuel Rail and guage - ES rack and front bushings - 260Z 4Speed - Arizona Z Car Clutch - H4 Lights - Lots more to come...
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Looks good man, once again PROGRESS is GOOOOD.....
What no pics of the internals LOL!!!!!
1981 280ZX NA
350k + on the Original motor
Still enjoyin the RIDE!!!
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looks g00d
73' 240z: F54 4.2L, OS Giken LY DOHC Crossflow head, 17:3comp.ratio, N33, Tripple SU's, T10 Hybrid Draw-Through TT @ 47pds, Roots&Centrifugal Type supercharger, 3-2-1 headers, Centerforce 4 clutch, 6oz flywheel, R300 differential, Super-Hicas
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Well, see what it does as a system after the dyno then, I was always tought to not use a dyno, for the reason that, My car gets performance changes nearly every week, and thats not cost effective for me to go to the dyno every week, but thats why my dads buying a dyno for us to use, one day. Gtech Pro, Plug Watching, WB, etc. THose are my dynoless tools, lol.
See if you can get it into the 12's then we know how good a car works as a system. Once you get it on the dyno, I know your gonna come over here and post dyno numbers, and is that dyno correct, more than likely not, but time clocks on a strip are HIGHLY accurate, and DONT lie for error.
Lots of Z cars, 1970's-1983's.
1977, Megasquirt, 12.8@ 105, 1.70 60 Foot, 2940 LBS. Blake Machine Co, Phx, AZ http://bandmzcars.com http://blakemachineprojects.com http://www.zselect.com
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If you read his post, he is NOT building a drag car. So "get into the 12's" is not his goal I bet. If he wants an all around performance car, the dyno is the place to tune.
1972 240Z 4-speed, header, 3.54 R200, Crane XR-3000 Ignition, 280Z tach, Tokico Blue Struts, Suspension Tech Springs, Poly Bushings. Visit me at my website for your custom EFI & restored Datsun parts
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So "get into the 12's" is not his goal I bet.
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Exactly. It would be like me telling Blake he needs to take his car to Road Atlanta then post lap times and because as a "system", straight line numbers are meaningless. Then again he is building a drag car so of course 1/4 mile times are what matter to him.
On the heat shield, the intake and the header are both thermal barrier coated so I'm not going to bother. On the fuel rail, a "billet rail" isn't going to improve performance and doesn't equalize flow to the injectors like the stock rail does, it's not going to be replaced. The black thing by the hood release is the map sensor, will probably find a better home for it when I do some more detail work.
Thanks for the compliments!
Steve 77 280z, 3.1L, SDS w/turbo injectors, MSD, 280/.510cam, titanium retainers, Sunbelt-intake and head, Nismo1.75 headers, susp mods, toyo calipers etc etc.. my engine
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A good dyno will help both drag & road race set-ups. They are 2 different styles of driving & hence 2 different loads on the engine at different RPM's. One should not confuse the one with the other.
This whole world smells bad, I'd buy another if I had
back what I paid for another mother@#$%@# in a motorcade
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Shoot, Id take my car to road atlanta any day! MANY have seen my car as a autocross car, and Im not going to spout off my own car, but with my crappy autocross driving abilities, The car works PRETTY darn well, handles pretty well. My car is a drag and track car, and street car, I can do it all. I am all about a well balenced car, so thats what I built.
Lots of Z cars, 1970's-1983's.
1977, Megasquirt, 12.8@ 105, 1.70 60 Foot, 2940 LBS. Blake Machine Co, Phx, AZ http://bandmzcars.com http://blakemachineprojects.com http://www.zselect.com
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and Im not going to spout off my own car..
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LOL But that's exactly what you did..
:-)
Steve 77 280z, 3.1L, SDS w/turbo injectors, MSD, 280/.510cam, titanium retainers, Sunbelt-intake and head, Nismo1.75 headers, susp mods, toyo calipers etc etc.. my engine
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So Spill the specs, Comression ratio, piston mass, full floating pins?, Rods, etc. Were all curious.
Lots of Z cars, 1970's-1983's.
1977, Megasquirt, 12.8@ 105, 1.70 60 Foot, 2940 LBS. Blake Machine Co, Phx, AZ http://bandmzcars.com http://blakemachineprojects.com http://www.zselect.com
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Quote:
Screw the dyno, run that sucker down the Drag Strip and see how the car works as a SYSTEM, because thats all that matters, not just some dyno number on some uncalibrated dyno.
Quote:
My car gets performance changes nearly every week, and thats not cost effective for me to go to the dyno every week, but thats why my dads buying a dyno for us to use, one day. Gtech Pro, Plug Watching, WB, etc. THose are my dynoless tools, lol.
Interesting contradiction there.
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Pete1978z: "It's not that I think stupidity should be punishable by death, I just think we should take the warning labels off of everything and let the problem take care of itself."
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You ain't curious....you're just trying to draw him into an argument. Pretty transparent....and exactly the kind of behavior that has been the topic of dicussion lately.
Ken
'82ZX n/a 2+2
'02 Sportster XL1200C
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Nice setup Steve. You can always get the fuel rail nickel, (or zinc...whatever) plated if you want.
Ken.......agree.
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I agree on the fuel rail, use the stocker, they do look decent replated. Nice looking setup Steve.
There is no way I would build a motor like that and just take it to the strip. Could very well be the last run of the motor. Without knowing were you really are AFR wise and running hard is not very smart regardless of what you plan to do with the car.
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the black thing is his map sensor holder!!
steve, looks great! about time its finished...
i remember seeing that head...ohh man i bet that thing will put out some good numbers after its tuned!!!
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High Performance NA L28 engine, Performance Suspension, Full Interior, 2500lbs, and room for 3 HOT girls in the car!
shift_2+2
13.9 @102.7 on 205mm street tires and 110 octane :-)
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the best part about it, is that i bet hes using a stock crank pulley, and still has the AC system, right steve?
when he took me for a ride, we had a full tank of gas, and the AC blowing, and the car still hauled ass, even 2.8 liters...
i shutter to think what its going to be now...
and hes still got that mechanical fan ;-)
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High Performance NA L28 engine, Performance Suspension, Full Interior, 2500lbs, and room for 3 HOT girls in the car!
shift_2+2
13.9 @102.7 on 205mm street tires and 110 octane :-)
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Looks good. makes me want to do something with the 2 LD28 blocks I have in my garage.
what diameter are the intake runners on that sunbelt manifold?
hopefully, Ill have my ITB manifold with 40mm runners welded up by the end of this month.
McAdam
1980 280zx with a mildly ported N47 maxima head, 60mm TB, -C- stamp 256 degree camshaft, and a 2.5inch mandrel bent exhaust. yeah, its quick, and yeah, its a 2+2. NOW with MSandS_E power!
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the two ld28 blocks???
you mean crankshafts?
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High Performance NA L28 engine, Performance Suspension, Full Interior, 2500lbs, and room for 3 HOT girls in the car!
shift_2+2
13.9 @102.7 on 205mm street tires and 110 octane :-)
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nope. blocks. one complete engine with pump, intake everything and another complete short block with complete rotating assembly and oil pan. . thinking of using the rods with some ultra short pistons for something.
McAdam
1980 280zx with a mildly ported N47 maxima head, 60mm TB, -C- stamp 256 degree camshaft, and a 2.5inch mandrel bent exhaust. yeah, its quick, and yeah, its a 2+2. NOW with MSandS_E power!
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looks great steve, i'm liking it a lot.
82 NA 5 spd
77 4 spd
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<the best part about it, is that i bet hes using a stock crank pulley, and still has the AC system, right steve?
when he took me for a ride, we had a full tank of gas, and the AC blowing, and the car still hauled ass, even 2.8 liters...
i shutter to think what its going to be now...
and hes still got that mechanical fan ;-)
>
Funny, A/C and all and the car is still fast good deal, I always say keep the accessories.
signed pseudotechnician view point, Sniper S^$ker, with girly arms : UCC 1-207
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now ours on the other hand is strictly stop light to stop light terror with no interest in handling or road racing with it.
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price tag???????? how much that pile cost you
70 yay!
77 parts
81 compressed parts
86 compressed it handles
00 mercury cougar omg wtf : \ girl has to have something to drive
- owned
74.5 why did i sell you
81 1st car $425 found out s130s dont handle stock
82 good
84 BMW 325e omg never again
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From pan to valve cover including intake, headers, SDS fuel management system, injectors, exhaust system, flywheel etc aprox $7500 in parts and machine work.
Steve 77 280z, 3.1L, SDS w/turbo injectors, MSD, 280/.510cam, titanium retainers, Sunbelt-intake and head, Nismo1.75 headers, susp mods, toyo calipers etc etc.. my engine