General Chat
Q:
Hi Gang:
I would like to have some suggestions as to how often I should change the oil in my 83 ZX. I put about 200 miles a year on it and the rest of the time it sits in the garage.
When do people change the oil on show cars? I used Amsoil for the last oil change thinking that it would last for many years. However, I was wromg and when I got the car out this Summer a valve had stuck. Two cans of CD-2 loosened the stuck valve in about three minutes running time. I am draining the the oil as I write this, and would liked to know if I should use plain Dino oil or keep using Amsoil but change it more often. Some one suggested that I drain all the oil for Winter storage.
Any thoughts about this problem?
TIA,
Zeke
A:
do you atleast start and run car over the the winter or do you just park it and forget about it
'80 280zx-3.0L stroker, MegaSquirt, ACT 6 Puck clutch, AZC radiator, ACZ lightened flywheel, 550cc injectors, LM-1, Willwood Front brake Kit, (And i still cant get the damn car to run right)
'81 Fairlady- Rust
'71 Opel GT stock
A:
I've never heard of a Z car having a 'stuck' valve. Assuming you were equating ticking with a stuck valve, if this is a turbo car, many of those came with hyrdraulic lifters, which can click after a period of non-use. Could that be it?
Personally, I would stick with whatever oil the car (and you) like. There are advocates on this site for both dino and syn, but in your case, with so few miles, it probably doesn't matter much.
How often to change? Well, 3K for a car that gets driven. But at your rate, it would take 15 years to accumulate that many. I honestly don't know if oil "goes bad" after just a year or two — or 10. Maybe somebody here can offer more insight on this.
One thing I WOULD do in your case is starte the car several times a year — maybe as often as every six weeks or two months — let it get to operating temp and run for 15-20 minutes. This should keep the lifters (if you have them) pumped up and the juices fresh and flowing.
If this is a low-miles original, or a resto, it would be fun to see pics.
'76 280Z driver, '75 parts car
A:
200 a year? so progressively you will end up with the best shell available matted with the most unreliable power train, in order to protect the moving parts they have to move! there is no substitute.. neither ideling..race it every time.. what a waste
Have you shared the left lane today?
A:
Change it once a year after you finish driving for the season.
Every couple of months:
- Disconnect distrubutor input and crank it for 1 min to relube
- don't apply E brake
- roll a few feet forward or backward to have it rest on a new part of the tires
- watch out for mice
- disconnect battery and charge it every 2 months
- leave windows done 1/2"
Injector Cleaning Service
THE FREE ONLINE INDEPENDENT Z STORE
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A:
I was reading some of the repairs that was done on my Z by the previous owner, and it said they had to do work on a stuck valve.
-1981 280zx
-89 Jeep Cherokee
F-54 - N-47 - 9.8:1 comp - 6-3-1 header -Schneider (470 lift, 280 dur.) - full 2 1/4 exhaust- Pallnet fuel rail - 6 puck ceramic clutch
A:
Throw a can of Stabil into the tank at the end of the season also.
Dave
12/70 240Z, L-28, flat-tops, N-42 head, N-33 intake, MSA 10-2002 cam, ZX ignition, early 5-speed, R-180,4:11 gears, 903 Blue paint.
A:
I'd change once a year. Prolly at the end of the season as Blue suggests.
5 quarts at what ever price shouldn't break your bank account.
You should really try to drive it more often too. These cars or any car is made to be driven. If it really is a show car maybe you should just push it around.J/k
Putting on that few of miles I'd be more concerned with the gas in the tank and not the oil in the pan.
original owner 1978 280Z
1977 project car
A:
if you don't drive your car give it to someone that will. stop wasting good cars.
_____________________________________________
'05 350Z Chrome Silver Touring
'73 240Z
A:
old gas is known to stick valves.
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Justin T
72 240Z L28, 5-speed
77 280Z 5-speed (t-boned 8-25-04)
80 280ZX automatic(retired)
A:
Oil, even when not being used very much has a tendencey to develop acids from the dilution that slips past the rings even in tight engines and especially in engines that are not used much (the heat from a long drive will burn off the dilution). Check with the oil manufacturer but usually it's at least every 12 months.
A:
I change mine every 6 months if the car doesn't get driven much. Also jack it up and put supports ( I use short pieces of railroad timbers) under the control arms. This compresses your suspension and keeps your tires of the ground which helps with dry rot and getting tires out of round..
Matt
A:
Change it when you feel like it. In the mean time, use an air pump from an aquarium, a 2 liter bottle, a few pounds of drying agent, and some aquariun clear tubing to make sure there is no condensation in the engine...