Interior Exterior
Q:
Hey folks,
I'm wondering what experiences y'all have had with your polycarbonate nose scuff guards...you know, those clear plastic thingies you painted the inside of and riveted or screwed to the lower front edge of the car?
Now that you've had them on for a while, how are they working out? Are they getting dirty, scratched, beat up? In other words, are they working?
I saw quite a number of posts that looked upon them (as they were just becoming available) as cheap insurance for really minor injuries to the front clam--have they proven to be so? Or have they caused more trouble than they're worth?
Stories of success or failure (especially with pictures of the guards' current conditions matched with months-in-use figures) most appreciated!
Thanks!
A:
Just this past weekend, on a group drive, I had gotten out of my car and witnessed a yellow Elise (who shall remain nameless ) pull into a parking spot a couple spaces over. He pulled forward too far, and the front end went slightly over a curb. Not too bad of a hit, but a definite scraping sound. He had the scuff guards on his car, and they did the job - they got scraped up a little bit, clamshell was fine.
A:
I have them on my car, which I've had for a little over a month. They're not too beaten up (yet), but they have saved me from scraping the clam on two steep driveway approaches.
A:
Where do you get these?
A:
Where do you get these?
Any dealer!
Or... from lotusgarage.com
A:
A shop I go to has designed aluminum scrape guards, same kind - painted to match the car or black to look like a splitter, etc. Thoughts on aluminum vs. plastic?
A:
Or... from lotusgarage.com
Does lotusgarage have them already painted? And if so, the magic question is: How much? (It's alway nice to support the businesses that support the forum).
A:
I got mine last week.
This weekend I painted them with several coats of matched Bordeaux Red. You can get perfectly matched custom spray paints from Towerpaints.com as long as you have the paint codes (Which are posted here in a couple of threads). This was the first time I used the paint and I have to say I can't tell any difference. I think two cans of it was $30 or so. I'll be using the rest to paint my center console.
It takes maybe 4 coats to paint the inside of the lip guards. Because its see through it needs a lot of paint, although having the same color underneath makes it a moot point.
I test fitted them and they fit perfectly flush. Installation looks to be easy aside from a few small holes.
No more front clam scrapes for me. I don't mind scraping up a couple of pieces of removable lexan.
-Dave
'05 Elise BRP, Touring, Hardtop, Quicksilver
'05 Evo VIII (Buschur Racing Stg 1)
'03 Evo VIII (Buschur Racing Stg 0)
A:
You can get perfectly matched custom spray paints from Towerpaints.com as long as you have the paint codes (Which are posted here in a couple of threads).
I've wondered how this works for Chrome Orange - it's a three part pait, so I wonder how well a can of spray paint would match when painted from the inside of a clear piece of plastic. Anyone done this with Towerpaints for Chrome Orange???
A:
I haven't tried these paints yet, but I believe BRP is a 3 part paint as well isn't it?
A:
I believe Chrome Orange has a layer of pearlescence that BRP does not. CO is a 3 part paint. You could order the chrome orange color in one spray can, get a can of pearl, and then shoot it with clear.
TTP did his center console in CO and used a similar process, although he bought his orange at a local paint shop. It looks very professional.
EDIT: Link to TTPs DIY for Chrome Orange:
The bordeaux paint I have has metallic in it. It matches perfectly to my eye. It even changes color slightly in the sun like the factory color.
So its really just a two part, AFAIK. I'll shoot the back of the scuff guards with clear just to protect the paint layer, but its probably not necessary on these pieces. On a center console or splitter, you would definitely have to do several layers of clearcoat.
Anyways, it was cheap and easy to paint them. Took about 5 minutes to do each coat.
-Dave
A:
I made my own.
I went to my local plastics supply warehouse and bought a piece of 3/16" thick UHMW-PE sheet (ultra high molecular weight polyethylene). Attached with Wellnuts:
http://www.emhart.com/products/popwell.html
UHMW-PE is a lightweight plastic that has higher abrasion ratings than steel. It's used on snowplow blades, for instance.
Polycarbonate, on the other hand, is good for impact but it's not good for abrasion.
The area under the splitters is flat. I made a pattern that matched the flat area. They are black and you cannot see them without looking under the car.
Haven't had to test them yet.
No digital camera / no pics / sorry
Don
A:
UHMWPE looks like tough stuff. Questions:
1 Did you use flat sheets across the entire bottom of the nose?
2 Since you don't have a camera can you post a line drawing of the shape and where you put holes etc?
3 Can you paint the stuff? The only downside that I came across is the fact that UHMWPE is not UV stabilized. If they can be painted they might get some UV protection. At least these pads are on the bottom and won't get direct sun. One website recommended something called IPX for outdoor use. I haven't found anyone on the web that sells the stuff.
4 What is the thickness of the sheet?
5 How many connectors did you use to attach the sheet?
6 Is the stuff difficult to cut? Can it be machined?
Thanks
Ben
A:
Ben,
"UHMW ANTISTATIC BLACK" is black. A search for this got me 773 results. Black should be UV stable, but it's under the car, so UV should not be an issue. I bought it in .187 thick (3/16"). Here's one link:
http://www.professionalplastics.com/...ti-Static-UHMW
I got mine here: http://www.minnesotaplastics.com/
Most places should sell cutoffs.
I made two plates, approximately 13" x 7" & used 6 flathead countersunk fasteners each side. Trace the shape of the flat area & transfer it to the sheet. I stopped short of the tires. It cuts easily on a band saw. Hard to file or sand. You'll have to improvise your own design. Good Luck.
Don
A:
Ben - polyethylene, ESPECIALLY UHMW, is known for being very difficult/impossible to paint (the paint won't stick). I wouldn't recommend trying.
A:
Thanks for the input. I went to the fastener web site and it looks like there is a space that will form between the scuff pad and the bottom of the nose of the Elise when you tighten the welnuts. Is this visible? Do you think that air can flow through this area? If so some black weatherproof double sided tape might be a good idea.
In addition,I did find someone with some knowlege of UHMWPE and he confirmed the wisdom of your choice of material. He did suggest that the holes be oversized in the UHMWPE since one of the materials properties is extreme change in size with temperature variation. He thought that the swelling and contracting of the material might loosen the fasteners or crack the fiberglass.
A:
Thoughts on aluminum vs. plastic?
Aluminum is painted on the outside (obviously) and any scrapes will take the paint right off leaving shiny aluminum. The clear plastic is painted on the inside, so scrapes just remove clear plastic, leaving the paint untouched.
A:
Hi Ben,
Good points. I neglected to mention that detail.
I used a 1/4S Well-Nut which has a thin .051 flange. I got them from Ace Hardware, but here is another link:
http://www.hansonrivet.com/w71.htm
I put clear silicone around the gap at the front, but a foam tape would be good too.
I would expect that the Well-Nuts would cushion any flexing or expansion. Mine still looks like new after a couple of months & 2500 miles.
Don
A:
Another thought: You could use a mill to countersink the upper side of the UHMW. This would eliminate the gap.
Don
A:
Any dealer!
Or... from lotusgarage.com
Regarding the polycarbonate scuff guards. I can't seem to find these online. I searched Lotusgarage.com but couldn't find them.
Does anyone have pictures?
Can anyone give me pricing?
I already had to have my front clam removed in order to repair damage.
I would like to see these protectors before I buy.