Interior Exterior
Q:
Just finished up installing a boot pin latch. Thanks to Lucien for referring me to HyperSport in GA who custom makes these assemblies. My reason for the change is two-fold. I frequently forget my key when I want to get in the boot (I hate getting old), and the car is never left in a area prone to theft/vandalism. Second, having the PB Racing wing installed on the lid, I wanted a more secure method of keeping the lid tight. A welcome byproduct was some minor weight savings.
Cost: $107 delivered.
Installation time: ~90 minutes.
Tools needed: Wrenches 8, 10, 11, 13mm. 11mm socket. Drill & various bits, chewing gum.
Weight savings: ~3 lbs.
Difficulty: Easy
First start by removing the OEM lock assy on the boot lid. Four bolts hold it in place. Next, remove the lower latch assy. To do that, pull back the carpet to expose the 3 attaching bolts. Pull off the 2 wires that connect to the alarm pin. The switch is normally open, so if you don't care about the boot being alarmed, just wire tie them up as is. I've ordered a regular door jam alarm pin switch which I'll use as a substitute.
The lock pin comes with an ample length of lead to secure it to one of the 4 bolts remaining on the lower part of the boot. Then feed the lock pin/lead out through the louvers.
Next locate the center of the spine/bulkhead and set the base on it. Lower the lid and peer through the lock hole to ensure you have it centered. Unfortunately, you cannot use the existing key lock hole. Mount the base with the supplied bolts/washers. At this point, I stuck a tiny piece of chewing gum on the top of the pin. I lowered the boot lid so that the gum would adhere to the lid, marking the drill hole...worked perfect. Then drill a 1/2" hole in the lid...it should be approx 3" center-to-center with the OEM hole.
Finally mount the round protection plate to the top of the lid. No screws are supplied, so I dug out some stainless aircraft screws. After that, adjust the pin height by turning the collar bolt on the base and tighten down with a 13mm. For servicing, you can simply unscrew it & get it out of the way. For the original key hole, I covered it with an OEM boot lid badge (flat back).
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A couple more pictures...
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Nice solution - Good work!
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Very nice, i like it. Would the wire damage the paint over time? some plastic sleeve may probably help.
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Very nice, i like it. Would the wire damage the paint over time? some plastic sleeve may probably help.
The wire comes with a plastic coating from Hyper Sport...
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That is a nice well thought out product
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Dave,
You did a great job of installing the awesome Hypersport Engine Cover Pin. Congratulations! Wait 'till you see the Hypersport Rear Clam Hinge!!
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Dave,
You did a great job of installing the awesome Hypersport Engine Cover Pin. Congratulations! Wait 'till you see the Hypersport Rear Clam Hinge!!
Whoa... are you talking about a real hinged clam, where the whole thing can be tilted up?
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Maybe I am missing something. But why would you need the wire at all?
Ryan
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Whoa... are you talking about a real hinged clam, where the whole thing can be tilted up?
I'm not sure how that would quite work since the gas filler is connected to the body and chassis (I think). Something there would have to change.
It would be nice to have engine cover hinges that use "Pit Pins"* so that the pins could be pulled and the cover removed completely. It's one of the nice features of the Elan, that you can remove a spring (with your fingers) and lift the bonnet clear of the car. Finding a place to put it so that nobody knocks it over or steps on it can be a different problem...
For those that may not know, a Pit Pin is a pin with a handle on one end with a button - press the button, and the "balls" at the other end retract and you can pull the pin out. Without pressing the button, the balls keep the pin from coming out. They are (or at least used to be) used on race cars for quick access in the pits (hence the name "Pit Pin"). Aka: Quick Release Pins.
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Maybe I am missing something. But why would you need the wire at all?
Ryan
You don't *need* the wire...it's there as a convenience to keep the pin from getting lost.
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Yep, a hinged, tilt-up rear clam
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Yep, a hinged, tilt-up rear clam
I think we need some pictures
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Patricko
Tilt-up clam fabrication in progress. Drivetrain access phenominal. Pics soon.
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Do they have a website or catalogue? Sounds like they make some interesting products. Or is more of an ask it and they build it scenario?
- J
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I think that this is the site http://www.hyper-sport.net/
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Patricko
Tilt-up clam fabrication in progress. Drivetrain access phenominal. Pics soon.
Does this exist yet?
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I would be interested in a push button release instead of the key. It would be nice to keep the alarm protection also.
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Shiftlock,
The tilt up rear clam for better engine and drive train access does exist. My car has the prototype hinged rear clam. The clam can be tilted up or lifted off. I will post pictures soon.
We are completing the installation of the WILKINS-HYPERSPORT 300 turbo on my car this week and will be track testing at VIR next weekend. 295 + horsepower at the wheels on the first pull on the dyno.
Lucien
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I would be interested in a push button release instead of the key. It would be nice to keep the alarm protection also.
You mean this?