Interior Exterior
Q:
I read the posts on increasing the remote range by a simple antenna length increase. Yesterday, I opend the hatch and found it to be extremely difficult to get the cable housing loose. I lost the battle. I sliced the crap out of my index finger (requiring super glue to close the bloody, gaping wound). My left wrist looked like a botched suicide attempt with a dull disposable Bic. I read and re-read the instructions that made this sound so easy. What am I doing wrong? I just want more than a 6 inch remote range! Arrrrrrrr! The main flaw in the tutorial was that not enough info was given on HOW to actually pry the cable thing off. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks.
A:
I read the posts on increasing the remote range by a simple antenna length increase. Yesterday, I opend the hatch and found it to be extremely difficult to get the cable housing loose. I lost the battle. I sliced the crap out of my index finger (requiring super glue to close the bloody, gaping wound). My left wrist looked like a botched suicide attempt with a dull disposable Bic. I read and re-read the instructions that made this sound so easy. What am I doing wrong? I just want more than a 6 inch remote range! Arrrrrrrr! The main flaw in the tutorial was that not enough info was given on HOW to actually pry the cable thing off. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Joe,
If you have medium size hands, there will be two minor points to overcome. One (for me, at least) was clipping the black tie wrap that closes the end of the plastic bad which encases the junction block/ wiring harness leads. It's tough because you can't easily get a set of diagonal cutting pliers to it, buried inside the dash. The only solution is finding "the right tool", which means cutter pliers with longer grips, etc. You do NOT want to get sloppy and cut any of the alarm wires, so move carefully here.
The second obstacle is separating the two halves of the junction block, so
that you can confirm you have the correct lead (#13, black, which should be adjacent to the pink lead at the driver's side of the junction block, if my memory is right). You will see two prongs, one at each end of the block -- these prongs keep the two halves of the junction block together. To release the prongs, you push OUT (not toward the center of the block) since the prongs are part of the more stationary half of the block pair (the half that is closest to the firewall). Push one prong out, pull a little on the wiring harness to slightly move that side of the block away from the "stationary" block, then push the other prong and you should be able to pull the freed block / wiring bundle towards you. At this point, you have much better access to the correct lead and can more easily add an extension to it.
Good luck, and stop all that bleeding. You'll appreciate the more normal performance of the alarm arming / disarming soon.
Jim
A:
... I sliced the crap out of my index finger (requiring super glue to close the bloody, gaping wound...
i haven't done this mod yet... but it keeps freakin me out more and more...
which part is the sharp part? we need more pics
A:
Verry cherry advice, Jim! Thanks for the heads up. Your post helped clarify the missing/confusing elements in the original how-to post. Jim should be Uberized!
A:
yup, I tried the first time and nearly bleed to death..
So I made it easier on myself and took apart the dash..
A:
subscribe
A:
I just find it completely ironic that people are being almost mortally injured trying to improve their ALARM system range
A:
Jim should be Uberized! [/quote]
Joe,
Not too sure I like the sound of that verb. Without some photos or diagrams, I'll probably have to decline the honor.
And for bluejae, the "sharp part" is the lower edge of the rectangular opening in the dash that you must reach past to grab the wires. Mine had a layer of thin foam covering it, but I still managed to get a minor scrape on the knuckle of one finger. As previously noted, it wont hurt to add a strip of duct tape to minimize the abrasion. Now go on, do the job and enjoy the benefits of DIY.
Jim
A:
So I did this and I have a July 05 car (built in march) and I have some thoughts.
1) The main danger is the foam coverd aluminum sheet that sticks up from the bottom. The foam may look safe, but it will almost instantly degrade when your hand presses on it, causing serious bleeding (yes, I'm wearing bandaids right now)
2) On my car there was a huge piece of foam obscuing the alarm. The alarm was on the bottom right if looking directly into the car. Try pushing the foam back instead of pulling it out. Its sealed in a plastic baggie. I did NOT remove this plastic baggie.
3) My antena wire was exposed and taped to the rest of the wiring bundle. Note there are two wire bundles and only one has the antenae. If you see (or feel) the wire bundled that leads into the plastic baggie that the alarm is in, check for a black wire that is taped on to the outside of the bundle. Cut the tape that holds that wire on (it will look a little different (out of place) compared the other wires in the bundle). In my case it was only 6 inches so this was pretty simple to do it way (I left the tape holding the rest of the bundle alone).
Hope this helps...
A:
I couldnt find the connection and found the wrong wiring harness, I think it is for the power windows. I pulled on the black wires and nothing came loose.Then I saw a bunch of other wires in another loom and eventually undid most of the wrapping around it and found the mysterious black wire. I added some wire from a TV/stereo antenna and now I have about a 100 ft range. I measured the new antenna and think its 2 inches too long, but I ran it out of the side and pushed in behind the moulding going up the side of the windshield frame.
My hands got all cut up too, but if you get a piece of plastic tubing and slice it longways you can then slide it over the sharp area so that it wont rub against your hands. I should have done that first!
A:
i was thinking of wearing a glove..
A:
I cannot believe how much foam was stuffed in there. Even after removing about 1/2 of it I couldn't get the rest to come out, so I just stuffed it further in, so I could get to the harness. I just coiled up the new piece of wire and taped it to the back of the cubby hole plate. Will test for distance next time I have the car out.