Interior Exterior
Q:
Does anyone know what vin # they changed the location of the AC sensor?
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Does anyone know what vin # they changed the location of the AC sensor?
Look at jim-clayton's post one page back for your answer.
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First, a big Thank You to Jim Clayton for sharing the important pages!
After a drive through 95-F weather today, I've been giving some sweaty thought to this service advice. My car is in the 650's and I just had a peek in the A/C housing to find that I have the newer-style probe, and it's in the right place on the evaporator.
However, it was sitting about 1/4" away from the coils, making no contact at all. A gentle bend put it in touch with the fins, and a dab of silver thermal transfer grease seemed like an appropriate embellishment.
Tomorrow I'll find out if it fixes the situation.
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just got my car back from HRM...nice and cool now
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Ground Loop posted pics of the newer version bracket. To add to the info in this thread here's pics of the old (80mm) style that was on my car (vin #0038). Like Ground Loop's it was held about 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the metal and needed to be repositioned. In my case I also had to cut the white plastic ties which held the probe to the bracket.
While this is an easy fix I think a lot of guys are going to have a hard time getting their hands into the opening.
Re cutting the plastic ties: I tried several tools, but an Xacto knife worked best.
Re removal of the plastc ties: Had to have a female with slender hands reach in and remove them.
Here are before and after pics of the 80mm setup:
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If any of you are wondering where the heck this part of the car is located here's a wider shot...
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Now ... for a real live torture test .... IN PHOENIX ARIZONA
The short of it:
Before:
When crossing the desert in 115 degree heat on Friday my AC would work for about 40 minutes then the air flow would dwindle down to nothing. The cabin, with full sun pouring in, would then climb to 130 degrees+. Me and my dogs were MISERABLE. The reason the airflow reduces to zero is not because of a problem with the fan, but instead because the unit gets covered with ice. That blocks air from flowing through.
After:
After repositioning the sensor this morning we took the car for a 2 hour test dirve in middle of the day 116 degree heat in the desert. The AC never failed. In fact we took a thermometer with us to measure the temps.
outside: 116 degrees, no clouds, full sun
inside: Full blast AC held the cabin at 81 degrees. Not super comfey but very close to it! This was measured several times during the drive and with two adults in the car.
Vent Air Temperature: An incredible 49 degrees. Measured several times toward the end of the drive. Felt very nice when directed onto the face or arms.
This is with the roof on of course.
All in all I'm very happy with this fix.
Pics attached...
- outside temp pic during 2 hour test
- cabin temp pic
- vent wind temp pic
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Thanks for the nice report.
Pictures are definitely worth a thousand words.
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Now ... for a real live torture test .... IN PHOENIX ARIZONA
I have my 1,000 mile service booked at Scottsdale Lotus July 11th - I'll be sure to show them this great report - many thanks!
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mine is pretty hot, just took delivery about 3 weeks ago. I find that the ac works find when the engine is cool. Then slowly it gets warmer, somebody said the heater core was near the condensor? Maybe a removal of the heater core will fix the problem? In houston we RARELY use the heater
Ohh and does anyone know where the high and low service ports are for the ac?
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Note to those of you attempting this at home: When reinstalling the fuse box after making this fix, remove the rawl nut and thread it onto the screw. Do not attempt to thread the screw into the rawl nut, as it will push through the hole and fall out the back.
Additional note to those of you dropped your rawl nut: You can get a replacement at Ace Hardware.
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Note to those of you attempting this at home: When reinstalling the fuse box after making this fix, remove the rawl nut and thread it onto the screw. Do not attempt to thread the screw into the rawl nut, as it will push through the hole and fall out the back.
I see from Doma's picture above that he removed just the fuse box as well.
Instead, I removed just the two easy screws holding the wiper motor cover & fuse box on. Then snipped the zip-tie that went around the wiper motor & under the fuse box. Then the whole lid came off and out of the way, fusebox still attached.
After that, lift the air duct, carefully tuck it away somewhere and reach into the duct port to make the fix. The fusebox never came off the wiper motor lid -- no need.
I think this was the way the service notes said to do it, although it does seem like it might be easier to remove just the fusebox. Someone dextrous enough might even be able to inspect the probe location without moving anything but the air duct.
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Maybe a removal of the heater core will fix the problem? <...>
Ohh and does anyone know where the high and low service ports are for the ac?
You don't want to remove the heater core. One, I believe you have to remove the front clam to get to it. Second, the coolant bypass circuit flows through the heater circuit. And Third, the "auxiliary" coolant pump flows coolant through the heater core if the block temperature gets too hot after you shut the engine off.
I believe the A/C ports are near the engine, just before the hoses/tubes go into the chassis on the right side on the engine compartment.
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You don't want to remove the heater core. One, I believe you have to remove the front clam to get to it. Second, the coolant bypass circuit flows through the heater circuit. And Third, the "auxiliary" coolant pump flows coolant through the heater core if the block temperature gets too hot after you shut the engine off.
I believe the A/C ports are near the engine, just before the hoses/tubes go into the chassis on the right side on the engine compartment.
Are they the ones on the passenger side grill? They arent marked high or low.
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If you drop the bottom tray (under engine) and stare up at the oil filter, I think the A/C charge ports are right there next to it. There is a sticker listing high and low numbers in Megapascal units, if I remember right. I didn't see a sight glass anywhere.
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Are they the ones on the passenger side grill? They aren't marked high or low.
If you can't figure out which is which, the best thing is to connect the high pressure gauge and measure the pressure. If you are on the low side, you will get a low reading and won't damage the gauge. Do it the other way around (using the low pressure gauge on the high side) and you could break something.
From the Service Manual (you have downloaded the Service Manual from Lotus for $25 haven't you?):
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Note to those of you attempting this at home: When reinstalling the fuse box after making this fix, remove the rawl nut and thread it onto the screw. Do not attempt to thread the screw into the rawl nut, as it will push through the hole and fall out the back.
Additional note to those of you dropped your rawl nut: You can get a replacement at Ace Hardware.
A 'Rawl Nut'? Those torture devices have a name?
I poped one out by accident and it fell deep down into the hose forest. After finding it I did like you said and threaded them on first, then they just pushed through. Tricky.
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Got through the 1,000 mile service and apparently my A/C was set up fine - in fact it's one of the colder ones they have measured! I'm currently running with the touring soft top, but I'm thinking of putting the hard top back on to see if that helps at all. And as soon as I can find some spare time I need to get tints...
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A very hot and humid day in New Jersey Finally had a chance for a long ride with the top on and off (started raining). A/C works fine for about 20 minutes then slowly starts to blow warm air...at best. My VIN is 460 and I will assuredly have the sensor fix done when I bring the car in for my 1,000 mile service.
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Took delivery today.
Air Conditioning works fine. It was one of the first things I checked.
-Jim