Interior Exterior
Q:
Little birdie sent me this link.
http://www.speeding.co.uk/acatalog/swi.html
Tony, these would be great for our heater bypass mod
A:
Those are cool! #3032 in particular looks familiar...
A:
Look ok but these are the best you can get
http://www.bulgin.co.uk/Products/Swi...luminated.html
A:
#3028 for me...
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Look ok but these are the best you can get
http://www.bulgin.co.uk/Products/Swi...luminated.html
i really like the MPI002... will that fit on our cars? how do you install it?
A:
Just did the convesion rate...those switches are almost 35$, the same price the dealer wanted! Jeebus! That's insane for single switch.
I'm still doing some digging, but I've found some switches that look like a very close match. Check here. http://www.apem.com/pdf/IP-latching.pdf
A:
I'm waiting for somebody to install a latching starter button.
xtn
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I'm waiting for somebody to install a latching starter button.
xtn
A:
Rob, would it be possible to wire the heater bypass mod to the a/c switch? The only problem I see with this is if you need to provide heated a/c for the front defroster grill... this is a scenario I don't expect for my usage.
A:
Rob, would it be possible to wire the heater bypass mod to the a/c switch? The only problem I see with this is if you need to provide heated a/c for the front defroster grill... this is a scenario I don't expect for my usage.
I've actually been contemplating that today. I'm sure it's possible. I've been debating a way to make it work so if you turn on the heat and AC that it doesn't bypass.
I need to pull off the control head and start poking around with a meter.
A:
Rob & JnC, my original thought on this was to use the fan speed 3 and/or 4 position to activate the heater bypass. I still think that this would be a good solution. Do you think this would be possible?
John
A:
Rob & JnC, my original thought on this was to use the fan speed 3 and/or 4 position to activate the heater bypass. I still think that this would be a good solution.
Actually, I'm removing the suggestion of tying the a/c switch to the bypass from the table.
There are frequent times when I'd like to just have the vent system running, but not have hot water in the heater core. If it's a pleasant day, I'd rather not turn on the a/c to shunt the hot water out of the core if I could just enjoy cool flow thru ventilation from the ambient air. I'd like to be able to drive on a normal day without the added load from the a/c.
Likewise, connecting the bypass to the fan switch wouldn't be practical for this either. (If that works for you or others, certainly go forth and figure it out. It will give us more options.)
A:
Ideally a heater core coolant bypass valve would be invoked when the temperature knob is all the way to the coldest position. Anything else would be non-intuitive for the user. Intuitive controls are important. This would address the desire of sometimes having A/C and heat at the same time to act as a dehumidifier for windshield defogging.
A:
Ideally a heater core coolant bypass valve would be invoked when the temperature knob is all the way to the coldest position. Anything else would be non-intuitive for the user. Intuitive controls are important. This would address the desire of sometimes having A/C and heat at the same time to act as a dehumidifier for windshield defogging.
I think that's the best approach. But it might be tricky to implement. What do you think Rob?
A:
I looked at the wiring diagram...I could be an idiot...but I couldn't figure out where the stupid knob/switch was?!?
A:
Sheet 10 of the circuit diagrams:
"Interior Fan, Rad Fans and Air Conditioning"
The Fan Speed switch is in the upper left area.
Just to the right of it, is the A/C Control Panel rectangle. This control panel in the circuit diagram appears to have two controls:
a) Mode (which should be directing the air flow to dash vents, floor, or defrost) - connects to Mode Actuator
b) Temperature - Connects to Temperature Actuator
Both appear to be simple variable resistors or potentiometers connected to their respective actuators, which simply move flaps in the air box. It appears that the flaps move in a continuous fashion, not stepped.
The circuit as shown isn't making sense to me. There may be an error in it. It looks like the wire between the control panel and the actuator should be connected to the center wiper of the potentiometer in the control panel, rather than shorting pin 2 to pin 1 of the control panel (and pin 4 to 5), which would make the pots useless.
So, how could this be used for a heater core bypass? One could put a threshold detect on the line to the temperature actuator, and if it goes below a certain voltage, bypass the heater core. Or, replace the temperature potentiometer with an equivalent one that has a switch invoked when in the full "cold" position. I think I have seen pots with switches built-in in the past, but I haven't looked. Control the heater core bypass valve with the internal pot switch.
This method keeps the standard knobs and doesn't add any switches that the user sees.
Here is an example potentiometer with an integrated switch. It is much like volume control knobs on radios, where the switch is off when the knob is turned all the way counter clockwise, but it is a volume knob (potentiometer) when turned on.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
The challenge is to find one of the same specifications as the old one (resistance, sizes). Does anyone have their A/C control panel off and can take a look at the insides, look at the connections (and post!), measure the resistances, measure the sizes, take picture (with a ruler), etc.
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I think this does the job.
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i have no idea what all this talk about bypassing and stuff is... but would those aftermarket switches just be a plug and play install?