Sector 111 Race Harness Bar

Interior Exterior

Q:
Can someone please explain how the new race harness bar attaches? The site says it directly bolts into the stock roll bar. How? Any pics? Does it sit lower than the 4tress bar? TIA
A:
Yes, it sits a bit lower. It attaches to the threaded bungs located on the rear of roll bar. You have to remove the rear plastic panel to see these. Our 4Tress bar attaches to this same locations. The Race Bar requires permanent removal of the rear speakers. You will also need to cut the rear plastic a bit or just pitch the the plastic panel and fully gut the car for added lightweight...
A:
Shinoo - I am attempting the install today of the 4Tress bar and Schroth belts I got from you ... any key tips, and are you around if I get stumped? I assume one of the biggest things is getting both seats out for the harness install. Also, I hope the bolts sent with the schroth harnesses will work with leaving the OEM belts.
A:
Shinoo - I am attempting the install today of the 4Tress bar and Schroth belts I got from you ... any key tips, and are you around if I get stumped? I assume one of the biggest things is getting both seats out for the harness install. Also, I hope the bolts sent with the schroth harnesses will work with leaving the OEM belts.
Never did the schroth belts but I assume they are like any other...
Take the pax seat out first (it's the most annoying).
Take the driver's out next (easy).
Take the top piece of the center console off (the cupholder thing, leave the center console itself)...
Then remove the back panel, start at one side and don't be afraid to bend it a bit. Get the two plugs per speaker (spades, they just pull off) and the one connector in the light at the center of the panel -- this is the shortest wire, but they are all short.
Once out, you'll see the threaded holes on the back of the factory frame rollbar in the car, install the little brackets with the 4Tress, and then test fit the 4tress after the brackets are tight. You may need to bend slightly the triangular flanges on one end or both ends of the 4Tress (their angle, not in the middle as to create a crease) -- a few degrees at most -- very little.
Bolt in, and proceed with belt install...
Good luck. Stupid pax seat. The outboard rear bolt is the worst. The front outboard is just annoying because you pretty much have to use a hex key and turn it 1/4 turn at a time. When you re-install the seat start with one or both of these bolts before the easy ones..
Cheers
A:
Thanks for the suggestions. Some have said you don't need to take seats out but it seems like it would make it hugely easier.
I assume I am unbolting the seat RAILS (4 per seat) where they attach to floor, NOT unattaching seat from rail. EVeryone bitches about the pass outboard rear allen bolt being hard to get to. I went out with my socket set and extension and loosened it first try, so I began to wonder if I was loosening the wrong bolt. Also, I note that the front two bolts on drivers side are hex head, not allen.
Anyway, I will give it a go.
Had pretty good luck getting my exhaust in so can't be too bad.
A:
Thanks for the suggestions. Some have said you don't need to take seats out but it seems like it would make it hugely easier.
I assume I am unbolting the seat RAILS (4 per seat) where they attach to floor, NOT unattaching seat from rail. EVeryone bitches about the pass outboard rear allen bolt being hard to get to. I went out with my socket set and extension and loosened it first try, so I began to wonder if I was loosening the wrong bolt. Also, I note that the front two bolts on drivers side are hex head, not allen.
Anyway, I will give it a go.
Had pretty good luck getting my exhaust in so can't be too bad.
Yep, the rails... and if you got it easily, good for you. It is a lotus after all, they're all completely identical, right????
Best of luck..
A:
I didn't have a problem doing it without taking the driver's seat off. The most important step is test fitting everything before putting the back panel (and sound deadening) back on.
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