Interior Exterior
Q:
I painted my grills black all around the car. They were either removed or painted in place using masking techniques. Now they are blacker, and will be easier to keep clean - no more of those whitish stains that keep returning!!! I painted any visible yellow that you could see through the grilles...had to do that by brush...I'll have to touch up a bit in a week or so. These grilles were painted with the engine cover off the car (lots more room to work on motor stuff...) and the cover was masked. The grilles are glued on...maybe some will decide to carefully remove them from the engine cover for paint efforts. BTW you can snip off those four little plastic rivets at the back of the rearmost two grilles - they look ugly and are not needed. I just used a wire cutter to snip 'em flush.
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Stan- your doing great work! maybe I could send you my car for a week.
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Stan,
You said in another thread that you were using the black Fusion paint for plastic. I assume you mean this stuff:
Fusion Paint
Which black color did you use: 2321 Gloss Black or 2421 Satin Black? Do you think there would be much difference in appearance? (After all, the orgininal surface of the grills is a flat texture, not gloss or satin)
Now that you have seen it on the car, do you still think a pure black is the best choice, or would you have gone with a dark charcoal (much like the color the grills start as)?
Does anyone know how well the Krylon Fusion paint should hold up in this application relative to a regular automotive paint (sun, high wind, rain, rock impacts, sand impacts, etc.)? (I assume that an adhesion promoter would be used prior to using the automotive paint)
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I am surprised you can snip off those plastic rivets. They do look really awful when you notice them. Do you think they were for assembly and then the glue makes them redundant?
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removing the vents to put them back....HAHAHHAHAHAHAH....I removed them yesterday to put mesh grill instead....let me tell u not only is it ****in almost impossible to remove, also there will be NO WAY for u to put it back believe me, especially the back ones since u have to rip them off......
and btw looks good painted in black
-Seb
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removing the vents to put them back....HAHAHHAHAHAHAH....I removed them yesterday to put mesh grill instead....let me tell u not only is it ****in almost impossible to remove, also there will be NO WAY for u to put it back believe me, especially the back ones since u have to rip them off......
and btw looks good painted in black
-Seb
Despite the fact that it is "****in almost impossible to remove", could you post instructions on how you did it? Maybe with some community effort, we could come up with other, easier ways to remove and reinstall. (Much like folks did for the grills in front of the oil coolers.)
Actually, I think we need some sticky threads on techniques like this. Maybe a new thread category.
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I removed my vents using dental floss. Use the floss to saw through the double sided tape that is used to "glue" the vents in place. On my Elise the tape is only present on the top and bottom edges of the vents.
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Despite the fact that it is "****in almost impossible to remove", could you post instructions on how you did it? Maybe with some community effort, we could come up with other, easier ways to remove and reinstall. (Much like folks did for the grills in front of the oil coolers.)
Actually, I think we need some sticky threads on techniques like this. Maybe a new thread category.
took a flat headed screw driver, and a hammer, and hammered ALL the countours of the vents, for the rear vents the back side u need to rip it off.....after that ull be stuck with a bunch of sticky stuff wich took me like an hour to clean and theres still left.......now the mesh grills are there with zip-ties, looks good but im gonna attach them with something else next week....and ill post pics of course
-Seb
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From the service manual Section BR (my highlights):
Elise
The engine cover/boot lid is moulded from glass fibre composite and incorporates 4 engine cooling outlet grilles secured by double sided tape and plastic rivets into recessed apertures. Two hinges are used to attach the lid to the rear bulkhead, with stud plates fixing the hinges to the bulkhead from the engine bay side, and the nuts accessible from the cabin after removal of the rear bulkhead trim panel. A single, key operated latch mechanism secures the lid to a striker pin mounted on the clamshell engine/boot bulkhead. The latch is released by inserting the ignition key into the lock and turning clockwise, the lock barrel being connected to the latch mechanism by a short link rod. When the latch is released, a spring plunger will lift the lid sufficiently to allow it to be raised fully by hand. Support the lid by inserting the prop provided on the boot bulkhead into the slotted plate adjacent to the latch mechanism. The spring plunger also operates a micro-switch for the alarm system, and is protected from exhaust manifold heat by a steel shield.
When closing the lid, fully engage the latch mechanism by pressing down on the cover only immediately above the latch. Note that the lock mechanism plastic cover plate on the underside of the engine lid, serves
also to channel any water ingress from around the lock into the engine bay. Drain holes are provided in the gutter surrounding the engine bay, with a collector and drain tube fitted at the rearmost extremity.
On USA models, an fluorescent emergency internal release handle is fitted on the underside of the lid to facilitate the escape of a trapped child.
To remove the engine cover, release the cover from the two identical hinges. Note that the hinges also serve to clamp the clamshell front edge to the cabin rear bulkhead.
Beware that the engine cover is locked whenever it is closed, and always requires the use of the ignition key to release. Owners should be made aware of the importance of having a spare key available in case of inadvertently locking the keys in the boot.
Edited to try to remove the funky font changes...
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******I am surprised you can snip off those plastic rivets. They do look really awful when you notice them. Do you think they were for assembly and then the glue makes them redundant?******
Well they might be an alignment thing to help the initial install....that end of the grill is glued down anyway. If you look on the inside of the engine cover you'll see some holes along the sides of the grill area. These are not used..(any might be gone on later cars) and might have been for a different grill design.
So snip away! Hmm...SCCA legality...comfort and convenience?
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removing the vents to put them back....HAHAHHAHAHAHAH....I removed them yesterday to put mesh grill instead-Seb
SEB - Could you add some more detail about your grill fabrication. What style and material grill did you use and where did you source it?
Natural metal, powdercoated or annodized?
What method did you use to fabricate it? Any suggestions?
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******You said in another thread that you were using the black Fusion paint for plastic. I assume you mean this stuff: Fusion Paint Which black color did you use: 2321 Gloss Black or 2421 Satin Black? Do you think there would be much difference in appearance? (After all, the orgininal surface of the grills is a flat texture, not gloss or satin) ******
I used the gloss black...it's blacker...and it's not hard to degloss gloss paint afterwards anyway should I so decide. The coarse finish of the plastic takes away much of the gloss of the paint finish so you wind up about like semigloss on a smoother surface.
******Now that you have seen it on the car, do you still think a pure black is the best choice, or would you have gone with a dark charcoal (much like the color the grills start as)?******
This is a choice thing...I wanted the black contrasting with the yellow on my car. Some will want them to be body color. You can also clean the plastic and then clear coat it to keep close to the exact original color of the plastic. I also wanted to get rid of the look of bright yellow when you look into the grill....this yellow is hard to keep clean! So some portions of the enthrance at the back and around the rims was also painted black (was yellow). There are at least two plastic grill colors a "black" and a "charcoal". You get one or the other depending on your car's paint color. Since my car is SY, I guess I got black.
******Does anyone know how well the Krylon Fusion paint should hold up in this application relative to a regular automotive paint (sun, high wind, rain, rock impacts, sand impacts, etc.)? (I assume that an adhesion promoter would be used prior to using the automotive paint)******
It's been on my engine cover for about 12,500 miles (now at about 13500 or so) and has lasted just fine. You can always redo it too, this is not a major thing.
You can use even better paint, auto body paint. Just use something like Bulldog adhesion promoter (comes in spray cans) as a first coat over plastic. I did this for my center console. And you can clear it with something with a UV addditive. My center console is still mint and has been kicked and so forth...I went with gloss over the natural plastic finish so it's easier to keep clean as finger prints don't show.
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SEB - Could you add some more detail about your grill fabrication. What style and material grill did you use and where did you source it?
Natural metal, powdercoated or annodized?
What method did you use to fabricate it? Any suggestions?
I bought them off a website I really dont remember the name sorry, if I do ill let u know tho!!
-Seb
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******When the latch is released, a spring plunger will lift the lid sufficiently to allow it to be raised fully by hand.******
By the way...you can shim up the white nylon tip on this spring loaded plunger. With paper or something. So that it sits higher...this way you can have the engine cover up a bit higher. This makes the cover easier to lift without rubbing your fingers against the edge of the clam. So you can avoid scratching the paint surface.
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That's it Stan - I think this addition put you in SM2.
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I removed my vents using dental floss. Use the floss to saw through the double sided tape that is used to "glue" the vents in place. On my Elise the tape is only present on the top and bottom edges of the vents.
It sounds like you had an easier time of it removing the vents. Could you detail your recommend procedure for us? (from start to finish) SEBM's hammering the vents with a flat bladed screwdriver sounds pretty scary to me.
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I have decided that I want Stan to live next door to me! Stan, the house next door is for sale.
(Notice I didn't say it the other way around. I much prefer the mountains of the San Diego, CA area than Connecticut, particularly with an Elise.)
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I removed my Engine cover Grille with dental floss as well. I warmed up the lid with the engine running and it seems a little easier since the adhesive got little softer from the heat . Since I got my CF Engine cover I bought a sheet of Aluminum mesh from my local metal shop. My friend at the local car stereo shop used some type of fiberglass resin/glue to attach it to the CF Engine cover and Radiator grille and painted them Black with a heat resistant textured paint. I came up with an idea on the Radiator cover since I hated the look of the stock Grille.
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I'd really like to know the technique for removing the side grilles intact (so they could be replaced if desired).
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******You said in another thread that you were using the black Fusion paint for plastic. I assume you mean this stuff: Fusion Paint Which black color did you use: 2321 Gloss Black or 2421 Satin Black? Do you think there would be much difference in appearance? (After all, the orgininal surface of the grills is a flat texture, not gloss or satin) ******
I used the gloss black...it's blacker...and it's not hard to degloss gloss paint afterwards anyway should I so decide. The coarse finish of the plastic takes away much of the gloss of the paint finish so you wind up about like semigloss on a smoother surface.
******Now that you have seen it on the car, do you still think a pure black is the best choice, or would you have gone with a dark charcoal (much like the color the grills start as)?******
This is a choice thing...I wanted the black contrasting with the yellow on my car.
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. You can also clean the plastic and then clear coat it to keep close to the exact original color of the plastic. I also wanted to get rid of the look of bright yellow when you look into the grill....this yellow is hard to keep clean! So some portions of the enthrance at the back and around the rims was also painted black (was yellow). There are at least two plastic grill colors a "black" and a "charcoal". You get one or the other depending on your car's paint color. Since my car is SY, I guess I got black.
******Does anyone know how well the Krylon Fusion paint should hold up in this application relative to a regular automotive paint (sun, high wind, rain, rock impacts, sand impacts, etc.)? (I assume that an adhesion promoter would be used prior to using the automotive paint)******
It's been on my engine cover for about 12,500 miles (now at about 13500 or so) and has lasted just fine. You can always redo it too, this is not a major thing.
You can use even better paint, auto body paint. Just use something like Bulldog adhesion promoter (comes in spray cans) as a first coat over plastic. I did this for my center console. And you can clear it with something with a UV addditive. My center console is still mint and has been kicked and so forth...I went with gloss over the natural plastic finish so it's easier to keep clean as finger prints don't show.
Has anyone painted their grills Storm Titanium or any other body color, besides black? Pictures? Did you use factory paint? Does painting them body color reduce their obviousness, subdue their visual impact?
THANKS