Interior Exterior
Q:
Oh dear! I finally got round to installing my Gullwing but find that I seem to have lost the instructions. Does anyone have a set that could be scanned and sent to me.
TIA
MAlcolm
A:
Sorry, no instructions, but where did you p/u your Gullwings?
A:
The instructions were on the Sector 111 web-site at one time. Don't seem to be there now. I would drop them an email.
A couple of things though. The gasket at the top of the windshield is difficult to install to say the least. I used some thin stiff plastic between the gasket and top to keep the gasket from rolling as the top slipped into place. Then was able to slide the plastic out. The plastic I used had the consistency of parchment paper.
Do not tighten the two nuts that hold the rear of the top in place more that finger tight. Any more than this and you will have dimples in the top.
Once the top was in place, I stuffed the space above the roll bar with foam insulation. Worked well.
Dan Tankersley
A:
The instructions were on the Sector 111 web-site at one time. Don't seem to be there now. I would drop them an email.
A couple of things though. The gasket at the top of the windshield is difficult to install to say the least. I used some thin stiff plastic between the gasket and top to keep the gasket from rolling as the top slipped into place. Then was able to slide the plastic out. The plastic I used had the consistency of parchment paper.
Do not tighten the two nuts that hold the rear of the top in place more that finger tight. Any more than this and you will have dimples in the top.
Once the top was in place, I stuffed the space above the roll bar with foam insulation. Worked well.
Dan Tankersley
Thanks Dan, That sounds like good advice. I have been in touch with Shimoo but all he has sent me the pictures but no luck yet with the words.
Ah! well what is it they say about a picture being worth 1000 words.
Here are the pics (more to follow), do you think I can manage with these?
Malcolm
A:
more pics
A:
...more
A:
..last 2
A:
Actually I think you can. The only difficult part is the gasket for the windshield.
The photos did remind me of a couple of things. When you remove the piece of interior trim you have to take out the screws and then pull out the plastic inserts. If you don't pull out the inserts they will break when you remove the trim. When you go to put this piece of trim back, you will discover that the two bolts that hold the rear of the top are long enough that they will either have to be cut off or will project through the trim. If you cut them off I don't think you can ever take the Gullwing off and re-install it. I made two small holes in the trim and let the bolts project through. I found some plastic covers for the bolts at Pepboys.
Finally, removing the Elise roof is a real trick. If you have two elbows it might not be a problem. I wound up literally getting in the trunk and laying on my back over the engine. Was still a long reach.
Dan
A:
The instructions were on the Sector 111 web-site at one time. Don't seem to be there now. I would drop them an email.
A couple of things though. The gasket at the top of the windshield is difficult to install to say the least. I used some thin stiff plastic between the gasket and top to keep the gasket from rolling as the top slipped into place. Then was able to slide the plastic out. The plastic I used had the consistency of parchment paper.
Do not tighten the two nuts that hold the rear of the top in place more that finger tight. Any more than this and you will have dimples in the top.
Once the top was in place, I stuffed the space above the roll bar with foam insulation. Worked well.
Dan Tankersley
Dan: I have the faintest of dimples on both sides of the
flared rear section, undoubtedly due to the tightening on
install. Since they match, it looks like an actual design
built into the roof but I'm curious to know if the dimples
could be removed and if so, how?
A:
Mine seem to be permanent. I backed the nuts off and the dimple stayed. I've decided to live with it. If it really bothers you, I think it is back to the body shop for more filler and paint.
Dan
A:
Mine seem to be permanent. I backed the nuts off and the dimple stayed. I've decided to live with it. If it really bothers you, I think it is back to the body shop for more filler and paint.
Dan
I guess there should have been some form of large washer
that could have been braced upward to take 'pull' off the
bolt as it came down for a snug fit to the body. Maybe I'll
send off an e-mail to Production Glassfibre in England and
get their thoughts.
A:
I started at last.
No real problem with the head liner but you have to be pretty brutal with those plastic screws. My mini-pry-bar worked wonders.
I have been struggling all afternoon with the nuts that hold on the old roof moulding. I have even had Judith sitting in the boot. I have got a 10mm long socket onto the bolt but cannot make any progress getting them loose. I wonder if it might be better to take off the floor panel and attack it from below??
If it were not for the fact that I need to be able to revert to stock I would have resorted to a hacksaw long ago.
Merry Xmas All
MAlcolm & Judith
A:
Idiot!!.
I was using the wrong spanner (wrench). It is 8mm (3/8). With a mirror I could see the problem and it made it much easier to see what I was doing. I still managed to drop the socket and nut and cant see them anywhere. I will have to put it on a ramp and drop the pan after all.
What a way to spend Christmas.
Malc
A:
Kudos to Dan and Shinoo. A lot of mail back and forth over the holiday and my Gulwing is installed
I did not tighten up the rear nuts and have no dimples. I think Ron may be right it needs a spacer to squeeze against.
I saw a thead about metal door handles. Did anyone find a source the plasic is not very pretty.
A:
Kudos to Dan and Shinoo. A lot of mail back and forth over the holiday and my Gulwing is installed
I did not tighten up the rear nuts and have no dimples. I think Ron may be right it needs a spacer to squeeze against.
I saw a thead about metal door handles. Did anyone find a source the plasic is not very pretty.
Mark Starr at Hunting Ridge Motor Sports (Lotus of Greenwich)
has beautiful polished aluminum handles with steel inserts. They
can be permanently affixed with a good two-part epoxy. Just
make sure you position them east-to-west with the pins in view.
Mark can be reached at 914-939-7200.
Also, in the event you get some squeaking at the point where
the pins slide into the front and rear sections flanking the gull
wing panels, I found these Cloth Reinforced Tank Bolt Washers,
which consist of a perfect center hole for the pins and are made
in two rubber sections sandwiching a cloth center. If they are a
bit too thick, simple sanding or filing can be applied to make the
wafer thinner. I then glued them to the four points that flank the
two gull wing panels and now have a nice rubber cushion instead
of fiberglass hitting fiberglass. The washers are by Fluidmaster
and can be found in packs of four in Home's Depot's Plumbing
section.