A&Q about Lotus
Q:
Hey Guys
Our Moroso baffled oil pans are on sale!!!
Was: $549 Now: $475
Sale ends November 3, 2006!
Let me know if you have any questions
Thanks
Neil
A:
remember to watch the bung hole carefully on these for leaks.
A:
Nice, was gonna wait but guess I'll get one now. Hmmm, anyway I can order online and pick it up when I'm in LA for vacation next week, save some of the extra costs if you know what I mean
A:
Originally Posted by Dietrich
remember to watch the bung hole carefully on these for leaks.
I'm really sorry for this but...
"heh heh, you like said 'Bung hole'"
Again, I'm sorry.
Please keep in mind that I have about 30+ gallons of alcohol in my kegerator and alot of it is in my blood stream right now...
A:
So I was thinking about this pan vs. an accusump (or both, but only if really necessary). I've not experienced oil starvation, but the tracks I frequent don't have many sustained long sweepers. I was going to get the accusump as "insurance". Any opinion on which might be better?
-RWarden
A:
I might be wrong but I don't remember reading about a blown engine yet...
I understand the sump and AccuSump, I use it on my Caterham Hayabusa. But the Busa engine is known to blow up in car application cause the engine doesn't tilt in corners like a bike. So far it did a good job on the Caterham.
Now, I know these things work. But isn't it overkill? Many race their Elise and we still haven't had a blown engine (to my knowledge) in two years. This sounds like an overkill solution to a problem no one had.
A:
Originally Posted by Dietrich
remember to watch the bung hole carefully on these for leaks.
put RTV compound in the bung holes BEFORE you install the oil!
Also there is a way to adjust the baffleing to make it so you dont need to bend your dipstick, BUT it needs to be done with a dry test fit before installation. use a heat gun to remove old pan from block
A:
Make sure the flange of the pan is very flat, or you will be fighting later with leaks. Use a lot of the goop for sealing (FIPG). I suggest trimming the tray where the oil dipstick will hit and moving the tray as far over from it as possible.
A:
Originally Posted by Randy Chase
Make sure the flange of the pan is very flat, or you will be fighting later with leaks. Use a lot of the goop for sealing (FIPG). I suggest trimming the tray where the oil dipstick will hit and moving the tray as far over from it as possible.
yes randy, very good advice, I would also line up where the pan goes on, and see where the dipstick hits the trays, and possibly drill a small hole there to allow for the stick to fit through, rather than bending it. I never trusted my reading with the bent dipstick. a glass tabletop worked well for me to see if my pan was flat. i also had to just remove my windage tray althegther as i trimed the crap out of it, and there was just no way that it would allow the moroso pan to fit. after 2 hrs of trimming and not much windage tray left, i gave up and left it off.
A:
Originally Posted by fishguyAZ
yes randy, very good advice, I would also line up where the pan goes on, and see where the dipstick hits the trays, and possibly drill a small hole there to allow for the stick to fit through, rather than bending it. I never trusted my reading with the bent dipstick. a glass tabletop worked well for me to see if my pan was flat. i also had to just remove my windage tray althegther as i trimed the crap out of it, and there was just no way that it would allow the moroso pan to fit. after 2 hrs of trimming and not much windage tray left, i gave up and left it off.
stupid question, but what's a "windage" tray? The flat tray underneath the engine?
-RWarden
A:
Originally Posted by Donbecker
I'm really sorry for this but...
"heh heh, you like said 'Bung hole'"
Again, I'm sorry.
Please keep in mind that I have about 30+ gallons of alcohol in my kegerator and alot of it is in my blood stream right now...
Just ask cornholelieo for some TP!
stupid question, but what's a "windage" tray? The flat tray underneath the engine?
Yes.
A:
Originally Posted by fishguyAZ
put RTV compound in the bung holes BEFORE you install the oil!
Also there is a way to adjust the baffleing to make it so you dont need to bend your dipstick, BUT it needs to be done with a dry test fit before installation. use a heat gun to remove old pan from block
Make sure you use the correct type of sealant. Some RTVs are ok with oil, and some aren't.
A:
Originally Posted by rwarden
So I was thinking about this pan vs. an accusump (or both, but only if really necessary). I've not experienced oil starvation, but the tracks I frequent don't have many sustained long sweepers. I was going to get the accusump as "insurance". Any opinion on which might be better?
-RWarden
If you drive your car on the street, then I've heard that the Accusump isn't advisable. It works fine in a track-only environment, but the frequent increase/decrease in oil pressure on the street will make the Accusump cycle very frequently, and that will cause your oil to froth. From what I've heard, the Moroso pan is a better solution for a car that is driven both on the track and the street.
A:
froth ???
A:
Originally Posted by matt
froth ???
Yes, as in definition number one, below.
American Heritage Dictionary froth Pronunciation Key
n.A mass of bubbles in or on a liquid; foam.Salivary foam released as a result of disease or exhaustion.Something unsubstantial or trivial.A fit of resentment or vexation: was in a froth over the long delay.
A:
Originally Posted by Shiftlock
If you drive your car on the street, then I've heard that the Accusump isn't advisable. It works fine in a track-only environment, but the frequent increase/decrease in oil pressure on the street will make the Accusump cycle very frequently, and that will cause your oil to froth.
No reason that the Accusump would "froth" the oil. Froth comes from air being mixed with the oil, and that doesn't happen with the Accusump - it's just a pressurized oil reservoir.
One possibility if you are concerned about the Accusump "cycling" too much is the alternative valve that they sell. You can get ones that only opens and releases the pressurized oil after the engine's pressure falls below a preset point (30 PSI for instance), instead of the valve being "constantly open".
Other than cost, there really isn't a downside to an Accusump - and the oil that remains in the system during an oil change unless you open the valve to release the pressure (and the volume of oil) into the engine.