A&Q about 350Z
Q:
Just went to visit my 350Z in storage. I've only had it for 4 months and had to put it away 3 weeks ago, boohoohoo.
I ran it for about 20 min to recharge the battery. There is no electricity to use a trickle charger where it is. Started right up.
Question... as the winter goes on and I repeat this process, the fuel will no longer be full. Anyone have an opinion as to whether I should bring more fuel to the car intermittantly, or just let it get lower until I can release the car from its winter imprisonment? I have already added fuel stabilizer before storing it.
2005 touring
A:
its fine. takes a damn long time for anything to really happen with modern fuel. especially with whatever you put in it.
A:
Why do you do that? I store mine every winter and this is the third winter and all I do is I disconect the negative battery cable and lock the car up with leaving the hood unlock because you need to connect the battery back in order to be able to lower the glass to open the driver side door. It works just fine. Do not start the engine and run it because its not good for the car. I've been told that , unless you just want to play with it time to time.
zcrazi
03 chrome silver Touring with chrome wheels,concept LED lights.
VIN#2223
A:
If you do all of the things that lawrence300zx mentioned above, you're car will be very happy with you. However, for the 350Z, I think that list is a bit extensive...
Of the things he mentioned, here are some of the most important things:
1) Gas: fill it up before storing in cold weather. The cold will help prevent the gas from going stale, and the gas will help prevent water condensation from forming. If possible, use gasoline that doesn't have ethanol added to it (ethanol promotes condensation and freezing of water)
2) disconnect the battery and remove it.
3) change the oil before you fire it back up if you can. When a car sits for months on end, in the cold, all the oil seeps back to the bottom of the engine. Drain this oil out, replace the filte and fill it back up with new oil. This will re-lubricate most of the insides.
4) Idle the car for ten minutes or so the first time you turn it back on. Again, this will re-lubricate everything. Just letting the tranny sit in neutral will get the tranny fluid flowing again if the engine is on (for a manual). Allow it to get to operating temp before you drive it for the first time.
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1985 300ZX n/a
A:
Great info., but a lot of that only applies to more classic cars. On the 'letting it run' deal, don't do it. The golden rule is, unless you plan on driving the car around for at least 5-10 minutes, don't bother starting it; especially in the winter where those cold starts do the most damage [although very little].
19[TT]91
My TT beauty is gone.
2[00]2 Honda 954RR
Suzuki 1200 S; sportscar eater
19[I4]94 Integra GSR Sedan
Long live the Z...
aka SAHTT
A:
yeah. I wouldn't start it up until you're taking it out. Let it run for 5-10 minutes before the first drive after storage.
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1985 300ZX n/a
A:
Just a few things to consider:
1) Fuel systems in todays cars are not vented to the atmosphere like they once were...Hense the hissing sound when you open the cap. Its a sealed system. You know the harmful vapours and all that. So forget about water vapour getting inside the tank...Not gonna happen.
2) Pump gas starts to oxidize and go bad in about 6 weeks or so and continues to get worse as time goes on...this I read somewhere and was told by a mechanic that it might be a month and then is off spec...However it will still run in you car but isnt ideal...6 months and its not so good. Fuel stabilizer is suppose to work and I'm sure its better than nothing. I personally try to run the tank almost dry then store the car. In the spring I just add a full tank of new fuel.
3) just disconnect your battery and leave it in the car. If its in good shape it should hold its charge for a few months. For longer than a few months charge it before starting the engine as a dead battery might put a higher than normal load on your alternator and thats not good for it.
4) It's not a good idea to start the car all the time for 5 mins in the winter. It fills your exhaust system with water and will cause it to rust from the inside out. And you'll end up getting water and unburned fuel and all that nasty stuff in your oil as well.
A:
Well, some other things to consider:
1) Your tank is pressurized, but the pressure is allowed to escape slowly. Thats why your tank vents when you fill it up only after driving it a lot. If you were to just pop the gas tank when it was sitting there, there would be no pressure. Just as pressure can get out, water gets in. And Ethanol added to gasoline promotes water absorption and freezing in cold.
2) Gasoline doesn't oxidize... Its a solvent and will oxidize other things surrounding it. Gasoline vapors will oxidize metals near it. Luckily while in storage the gasoline is in a closed tank and the vapors escape at too slow a rate to oxidize anything near. Gasoline tanks are designed to withstand the solvent properties of gasoline and will not oxidize. However if its empty, the cold surfaces inside the gastank will definitely acquire condensation. This will then contaminate whatever gasoline is put into the tank in the spring and can damage the engine. This is a known and documented problem with car storage...
3) usually a battery can just be left in the car when disconnected. But, should something go wrong while there is nobody to care for the vehicle, a battery can destroy a vehicle pretty easily. Its filled with sulfuric acid, very very strong acid. Should the case of the battery crack in the cold, the entire engine can be eaten. Not to mention that the gasses from a battery are very corrosive and can rust the components under the hood if there is no air circulation for an extended period of time. Its easier and safer just to remove the battery and store it in your garage or next to the car in storage where at least the vapors have a distance to travel before they destroy things under the hood.
4) This one is right on target. DO NOT start your car unless you are driving it away from storage for the season. Not because of rust (exhaust systems do not rust because exhaust gases would destroy them 100X faster than water ever would if they were made of material that oxidized) but because of extreme wear to engine components when cold and unlubricated.
Taking shortcuts when you store your car for the winter can definitely cause problems. My advise is to seriously consider lawrence300zx's post and properly store your car. Granted, some of the things in that LONG post are overkill, but there is a valid reason for taking all of those considerations.
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1985 300ZX n/a
A:
You guys left out one of the most important thing.. flooring? I put heavy duty cardboard on my garage floor and some carpeting strips. Plus I also applied a concrete sealer (no cheapy type) on the floor...I'm avoiding condensation in my garage!!
My SB ZR still feels like HEAVEN....what a wild ride!
A:
This man speaks the truth. I use a Battery Tender. I now own two of them. I have a ride lawn mower that I purchased in 1999 and it still is on its original battery. Without the BT, the battery would have deep-cycled itself to oblivion a few years ago. I also store my 350Z like I did my 300ZX. Fill up the tank and use Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer. Run the car a few miles to get the fuel into the injectors and then shut the car down for the season. No need to keep restarting because of the condensation issue.
Zed Head
2005 350Z Enthusiast in Silverstone
AZA Z-2 18x8.5 & 18x9.5
Yokohama ES100 245/40-18 & 275/35-18
2003 Infiniti FX35
Bone Stock