A&Q about 350Z
Q:
Hey folks,
I need an oil change. Any words of wisdom on whether I need to get it done at the dealer, or would would you trust your Z to a cheaper Jiffy-Lube place?
Also, I have grease streaks, and I've heard that getting them repaired entails having the door panel taken off, which can cause more trouble than it's worth. Do you think I should get the streaks fixed, or would you just leave them alone?
Thanks in advance...
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My ride: 2003 Silverstone Touring, Stillen front end, AEM cold air intake, 18 inch chrome wheels
A:
Anyplace will do as the Z isn't that special anymore.
Definitely pass on the grease streak "fix' as all it does is ruin the factory seals on the doors. Wipe it off with some windex and a towel.
A:
SLC Tortfeasor:
Don't take your Z to the Juffy Lube. That is a bad idea. It's like taking your Philips plasma TV to get serviced at Target. Jiffy Lube is great for Ford F 150's and Honda Accords...cars that don't require special attention. I don't have any statistical data to back up my claim, but I can promise you your Z won't get the attention it deserves at a Jiffy Lube. An oil change is a quick and rather painless process, there are other aspects of an "oil change" that will get ignored at a place like Jiffy lube, plus it's way overpriced. You can go to a Nissan specialized mechanic and get an oil change with a higher grade of oil for 10-20% less.
Also, find a place that has a Nissan mechanic as opposed to a generalist. That way you can be certain that the person working on your car has a strong familiarity with the inner workings of your engine, and can effectively provide much better service. Here in Nashville where I live, there is a place called Crawford Z Car, and they only service Nissan Z's and Infinity G's (or occasionally maxima's because they share the same engine). That's where I get all my work done, and I suggest you find someplace similar that can provide appropriate care for your car.
Previously owned: 2005 Z Enthusiast, Super Black, 6 spd.
Currently lease: 2006 Pathfinder S, Silver, Auto
"She is (and always will be) my little deuce coupe, you don't know what I got!"
A:
no offense, but why are many350Z owners so much lazier than owners of any other previous Z? Why don't you get good oil and a good oil filter and change it yourself. Save the money you'd spend having somebody else do it. Its easy, and theres no excuse for needing somebody else to do it for you. If you're gonna drive a sports car, learn how to take care of it.
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1985 300ZX n/a
A:
I wouldn't say I was lazy since my time is worth more to me than the $30 to have someone else do it. If you've got a lot of extra time then have at it but I'd rather be doing something else than changing oil in a car. Besides, be a good consumer and keep the oil change guys in a job.
A:
I agree.
Plus, weigh the $30 bucks I pay for another guy to do agains the investment I would have to make to change it myself. In the end, it is way cheaper for me. Plus, as radico says, I can afford to pay the $30 for some guy to do it while I do something else more beneficial for me with my time.
Previously owned: 2005 Z Enthusiast, Super Black, 6 spd.
Currently lease: 2006 Pathfinder S, Silver, Auto
"She is (and always will be) my little deuce coupe, you don't know what I got!"
A:
I love my car. I don't let anybody else lay their fingers on my car, unless I absolutely can't perform the job myself. This way I always know that the oil going into my car is not some cheap no-name stuff, or that somebody threw on a POS oil filter. Plus, an oil change is a ten minute process, so if you're time is worth $30 for ten minutes, you'd be making $180/hr. If so, I want your job.
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1985 300ZX n/a
Post Edited (Oct 10, 3:38pm)
A:
phxZ31,
Sounds like you're real good at oil changes in the 350Z. Since its takes almost that long to remove the air dam under the car just to get to everything.
Mspeasl
Central Illinois - Form member since 2/02
"Growing old may be mandatory, but growing up is optional"
03 Redline Touring 6sp "350Z" (Pre-Ordered 02/02) - Delivered 29 August 02
05 Satin Jade Pearl Chrysler 300C 6/04
A:
whether you like to diy or pay someone else is your option. BUT i would'nt take any type of vehicle to a jiffy lube type franchise and let those $7 hr. high school dropout, mechanic wannabes work on my car.
A:
Some of you guys and gals,
Just don't get it. That TRAY or Skid plate as some of you are calling it, is neither. It is an AIR DAM as I said earlier. It’s not a thin plastic piece of to save the oil pan from damage It’s there to make the 350Z a lot slicker going through the air. Any mod’s done to it will decrease its ability to slip the air as it should. End result is your car slows down and the guy next to you beats you’re A$$. In other words, LEAVE IT A LONE and don’t cut on it. Slow down and take your time and change your oil correctly by removing the Air Dam or have a Trained Nissan Tech do it if you can’t.
Mspeasl
Central Illinois - Form member since 2/02
"Growing old may be mandatory, but growing up is optional"
03 Redline Touring 6sp "350Z" (Pre-Ordered 02/02) - Delivered 29 August 02
05 Satin Jade Pearl Chrysler 300C 6/04
A:
i have no idea what you guys are talking about WHY REMOVE THE AIR DAM??? mine has pre-cut hole that is more than enough room to damn near fool with one's self (use your imagination!)... just kidding...
but anyways... i have NEVER removed my air dam to change the oil... i have removed it just for the fun of cleaning it...
Also i have had the grease streak problem solved on my Z by Nissan under the TSB and have had NO problems with it... just from my experience with it I would say go ahead and go for it...
for me the streaks were in a place that directly obstructed the view for my mirrors... so not only did the streak divide my mirror visibility in half and make lane changes a little dangerous... but they irritated the living **** outta me and ANYTHING that irritates me about my car i change...if in my power to do so...
BTW... i'm gonna get pics of this sometime so you guys can see it i guess... but it's not somebody's handy work... mine was made like this... which i find strange that you guys are all having to either remove the dam or cut hole in it...
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Chrome Silver '03 Touring -MT-
C.F. Nismo Wing
Shorty Antenna (Stolen!!! Thanks alot!)
Kicker Solo Baric L7 1200w
I don't think, I know...
Well, I don't think you know either
Post Edited (Oct 11, 6:59pm)
A:
Ok. You guys have me. I want to do it. I guess I am intimidated. But caring as much as I do about my Z, I guess it is important for me to do. The only reason I had it done at Crawford Z was because I trust them and I was having my transmission fluid upgraded.
Doug told me the transmission fluid is incredible and has had nothing buy great feedback. If anyone is interested, I can post the info from my receipt.
It was $100 to put in. That hurt. Especially since, in the back of my mind (I know I am gonna get hammered for this one), I was pretty sure there was a way to do it myself for cheaper.
What kind of tools do you need to do an oil change? Torque wrench? washer (what size?) Do I drain the oil into a milk jug?
Previously owned: 2005 Z Enthusiast, Super Black, 6 spd.
Currently lease: 2006 Pathfinder S, Silver, Auto
"She is (and always will be) my little deuce coupe, you don't know what I got!"
A:
I may be wrong but don't think a torque wrench is needed...just a wrench that fits well. You also need something to catch the oil in...low enough to fit under the elevated car and wide enough to catch the oil...and also to hold under the filter when you remove it as I assume it is inverted and will be holding oil that is just waiting to get all over you! Like I said in an earlier email, this is the case with all the vehicles I have changed oil in, but I don't have a Z yet. You need a store-bought ramp or make one out of wood such as 2x6's staggered like steps and nailed together...for each front wheel. That Z is pretty low to the ground so you just want to be sure that you don't scrap anything as you drive up on whatever you decide to use. I am sure the Z owners can set you straight on this. The bottom line is that change the oil a few times and it's no big deal.
A:
My dealer did the 1st oil change for free and it was worth what I paid for it. I did the 2nd oil change and the filter was loose enough to spin off by hand using 2 fingers. It had dripped a bit on the air dam so they definitely rushed through the job. Plus I am an Amsoil devotee; got 165,000 on my Z31 using nothing but and it never burned a drop of oil. I am NOT going to bring Amsoil to the dealer and risk it going home with them and me getting petroleum.
As far as the grease streks, mine were very minor until they replaced a window motor, now it is horrible; I think anytime they open the door skin they just throw gobs of grease on everything, especially since the window motors seem to have a pretty bad track record. They probably figure some extra grease will ease the strain on their shi**y motor and it will outlast the warranty. And the factory seals on the doors? Huh? My windows get wet every time I roll them down and back up for 2 days after a wash. What seals?
A:
Oil Change Items
Oil (4.5 quarts - 5 quarts) I use Mobil 1 5-30W. Do not use synthetic in the first 5K miles. You need regular oil to help rings seat during this period.
Oil Filter 15208-65F00
Oil Plug washer
Oil Change Tools
Ramps
Oil Catch Pan / Container
10mm nut driver, screwdriver, or power screwdriver
3/8" Rachet Drive
Oil Filter socket wrench
14mm wrench or socket for ratchet drive
Small flat bladed screwdriver
Before you start your oil change want to drive your car for a couple minutes to get it to operating temperature. Then put it on the ramps and let it cool for about 10 minutes.
What this does is suspends the contaminates in the oil. You’re then letting the car cool enough to work on it. Be careful the oil is still HOT!
1. Put the car on the ramps
2. Take off the air shield below the car. You can either use the nut driver or a powered screwdriver if the bolts are not too tight. As you can see I have modified mine so you do not have to take out as many screw each time you do an oil change. On my car it would also require I take off the air splitter and reinstall it each time:
3. Place Oil Catch Pan under oil plug. Take a 14mm wrench or ratchet with a 14mm socket on it and remove the plug. The oil will start draining:
4. Use your socket wrench with Oil Filter removal tool to take off the filter
Some oil will drain out of filter so make sure the oil catch pan is under it at this time:
5. Take some new oil out of your new oil bottles and coat the new filter's gasket with a thin coat of oil:
6. Take off the old Oil Plug Washer and install a new washer:
7. Install the Oil Plug using the 14mm wrench nice a firm but NOT with all your might:
8. Install Oil Filter as tight as you can by hand. Then use the Oil Removal Tool to tighten 1/8 to 1/4 more turn. You do not want to over tighten this:
9. Install air shield:
10. Fill with 4 quarts of oil:
11. Reinstall oil cap
12. Take car off ramps carefully
13. Park car on level, flat surface to check oil level
14. Check oil level on dip stick (yellow handle thing is step 10.) and add 1/2 to 1 quart to get to oil level between low and full. I always put it full. Do not overfill however.
That's it !!! Your done with your first oil change !!! Congratulations !!!
I can now do my oil change from start to finish in 20mins. You first oil change my take an hour or so but take your time you'll get faster after you have done it a couple of time.
"Racing is life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting"
Quote - Steve McQueen
'04 350Z Silverstone 6spd
Previous owner of 240, 280, and 300 Z's
A:
Your right! I just think it is smart to double check. Note Step 10 = 4 quarts
Step 14 says add 1/2 to 1 quart = 4.5-5 quarts.
If you don't install a new filter or drain the old one It is probably 4.75 quarts. Dunno ....
Thanks for keeping me honest ... ;)
"Racing is life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting"
Quote - Steve McQueen
'04 350Z Silverstone 6spd
Previous owner of 240, 280, and 300 Z's