A&Q about 350Z
Q:
This is kind of a general question, sorry had to repost here!
This Eagle I bought is in need of serious brake job, replacing rotors front and back.
Finally got the right socket for axel nut 32mm, but I'm stuck getting off the plate that's in front of the rotor. I assume it's just stuck on there and in need of a serious whacking, but any help here? see pics:
THANKSS!
A:
This hub has to be pulled off with a hub puller....and then pressed back on...takes a hub puller tool. if you need more info let me know
Nick
ASE Master Auto Technician, L1
A:
Yip, along with the bearings and rest of the hub casting.
The rotor is then bolted to the back of it.
If it won't come off easily, then as stated above you need a hub/pully puller to gently pull it off.
Whacking it with hammer might not be the best idea, unless its a "controlled" tap with a proper soft mallet to the back of the disc.
A:
Typical Mitsubishi/chrysler backasswards engineering.
A:
why do they do that...
it must be easier, but it would make more sense for it to be fixed in place some other way. they are just requiring people to buy extra tools to do their own repairs.
i guess thats what we get
A:
lot more manufacturers did that than just those two.
Dare I say, over the years, all of them have been guilty at one point or another.
A:
hub puller.
A:
Its not necessarily bassackwards, but it is a pain. Many of those hub assemblies are a press-fit bearing which work very well as far as reliability, but make brake jobs a pain. I have a truck axle that requires complete removal of the axle shafts to pull the drums
A:
Damn, that's almost the same as my rangerover setup.
Of course with a rover you've got oil bath wheelbearings and two locknuts to deal with instead of needing a wheelpuller.