A&Q about 350Z
Q:
Its a good read.
Some of you might have read it already, but some have not.
A:
I have brembo drilled+slotted rotors on my car and I TOTALLY DISAGREE with what the maxima guy said about them.
1. They were too large in diameter (supposed to have been stock replacement), had to have the calipers ground to accomodate (I needed brakes so I couldnt wait for a new set).
2. They chatter under moderate to hard braking (sounds like the slots hitting the edge of the pads). I know its not the abs
3. Doesnt work well with my abs.
4. Less brake surface area = less stopping power.
5. Once they get surface rust, they stop looking good.
A:
Fliquer,
Did you read the whole thread? There is better information later on.
A:
I like my AEMs. 30k miles, no probs. Better stopping than stock.
A:
DemonicAccord,
What did you think of the thread?
A:
whatever fancy boy, you're right I'm wrong. feel better? sheesh
A:
Yes, your right, physics is hearsay and conjecture. Glad to have enlightened you.
I did not post it here to start an argument, it was to educate the guys they don't know.
A:
the aem's dont really count in that regard, b/c they're not factory sized..
larger swept area means better braking...
it would be true even if aem used a solid rotor...
and they are switching to mostly slotted rotors...
most motorcycles (all really)... use drilled rotors...
why no slots there?
A:
So the best rotors are huge in diameter to disperse heat throughout the rotor, thick for strength, and have holes to vent gas and slots to clean them?
A:
After doing some research into which is better... I ended up with True-Stop (a little over $20 something apeice) front roters from NAPA for mine... hehehe
This was from reading posts by peeps that "actually" design or "test" rotors, pads. Sure if your going to be doing alot of track racing, then you want to step-up to the drilled/slotted ect.... However, with street and occasional track use. Then going with Tru-Stops, ect... will work just fine, and save you a bunch of money. That could be used on other performance gains.
If your going for show tho, thats a different story...
A:
Pnoi Q, and 88_SC_CRX_Si,
Did you guys read, by chance, the link I posted? I am thinking, no.
A:
Slotted and Cross-Drilled rotors actually do decrease your stopping power but it also keeps the rotors cooler to prevent Warping of the rotor. You have to find out if it is worth it to you to get slotted and (or) cross-drilled rotors.
A:
Yeah actually I did... The huge rotor is used to dissipate the heat and prevent cracking, that's what the one guy was saying. Then there were those who were fighting for the slots which said got rid of brake dust and such. Then there were those rotors that were thick in diameter, which gave the rotor more strength. AND FINALLY the holes/crossdrilled vented all the gas.
Soooooo... My conclusion is that a compromised rotor would be the best of all the worlds.
Big diameter=Less Cracking
Slots=Cleaner Brakes
Thick=Stronger Rotor
Crossdrilled=Vent Gas
Although having the slots may need more of a stopping distance compared to that of just a large diameter, it still will stop better than stock, and it still will be cleaner than if I had no slots, which in turn would look better. I forgot why venting the gas was important though.
A:
Brake Fade for venting the gas
A:
Well put Well put *claps*