A&Q about 350Z
Q:
I'm a flat-sixer myself, but I can understand where you're coming from.
And form can come with function for sure, but form should always follow function.
A:
On a total unrelated note, I finally received a response back from the tech staff at Power Slot reguarding installing slotted rotors with the slots facing the opposite direction as normally would be.
I'm really wondering now now much of a different I'd notice if I do this. Hey, at least maybe my wheels wouldn't get as dirty as they do from brake dust.
A:
What the Hell does more bite mean?
A:
Grabs better and puts you into the windshield? I dunno...
A:
Better stopping. But It'd probably rip the shit out of pads.
A:
Good thread. I've posted that altimas.net thread (and the archived copy from Corner Carvers) on many different boards. Too many people think that crossdrilled rotors are for anything but looks these days. And they get the concepts of "dissipate heat" and "disperse heat" mixed up.
And it seemed a few people posting to this thread had a hard time figuring out facts from that thread...
A:
Next time you slide to wide thru a corner, will the first thought in your head be "if I only had that bose radio from the 911, and the memory seats, I would ripped that corner like I was on rails"? That would go with your theory that everything on a porsche is for the track.
A:
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Great post from a logical mind.
I'll overstate the obvious.
Drilling was/is for cooling. Chamfering the hole entrance helps venting and lightens the rotor at the penalty of further reducing contact surface for braking. Casting the holes allows for simultaneous results of chamfering and surface-stress relief by having the surface of the holes the same surface as the rotor interior. Also, chamfering reduces pad consumption slightly, but here at a penalty of less pad cleaning. Chamfering also has the brake dust build more at the trailing edge of the hole and can be seen to polish it's own bird-eye chamfer.
With chamfered, if one wants good pad cleaning, add slots. If the holes are right-angle to the brake surface, slots are not needed, and the hole pattern overlaps so the entire pad is scrubbed, the rotor and pad remain machined evenly and with cleaner pad contact.
Anyone regularly cracking new rotors likely has the budget to design their own new models of performance brakes.
Front 930 float vented cast-hole new replacement rotor costs in the wide range of US$85 to $240 each rotor, 304x32mm, and 309x28mm. New originals might sell for $400 each.
Those with inventory can offer closer to US$150 each, comparable to prices of late-model streetable VWAudi performance parts.
A:
great info but you dug out and old ass thread good to see you know your stuff but keep out of the old threads plz.
A:
I'll post where the phuk I want as long as permitted, even if it's on your forehead with a blue ballpoint.
A:
Sure it increases surface area, but will it ever have contact with the brake pads?
A:
You added some informative information, to a very informative thread that has been running for a long time.
Your most welcome to post in it.
We do have a general policy of not dredging up old threads, but this an exception. Starting a new thread would have simply put lots of useful info in differnt places, and defied the purpose of a forum based around threads and posts.
And you might find a Nailgun more effective than a ball point
A:
cross drilled rotors suck ass, b/c as soon as it snows out, the snow gets in the holes, freezes up, and warps the shit out of your rotors.
A:
I always sorta thought it dpened on the car and the purpose
Ex. a large mucle car is going to be going "persea" in a stright line at a high speed from whitch hes going to need to return from whitch means hes going to want a large solid rotor and good pads
Ex. perhapse a Skyline (whitch is deisgn'd for this purpose, although do make a viscious drag car) is going to be going threw a circuit whitch in turn calls for a continueious systematic need to slow for a coner whitch means your going to want the coolest possible rotor because your re applying the brakes whitch is reestablishing friction with the rotor so the less heat is the less glazing of the pad whitch means a stronger re-establishment of friction to the rotor, and if your brake is cooler not as much of the brake is going to be occupied by dissipated heat so that more rotor is free to take in heat so in conclusion belive cross drill'd/ sloted rotor's for road race or auto-x.
and the owner of my local speed shop in turn does auto-x and road race his 380hp civic hatch and he has never done nothing much make car preforme better to or above my expectations, and i also would trust him with My life runs a 3,000$ bremo break setup that runs cross drilled rotors, whitch is what he recommed for my Integra
i am unfortiantly am a rip off mechanics dream consumer, i buy excatly what he tells me to, regardless of price (always good and low if any install charge) and none of his work has ever disappointed me. So he could have filled me with complete bullshit but they are what he has on his car
and for that matter since his prices and work are good and please me............ i guess one could say hes a good mechanic
Ps i stop'd reading the post at page 3 sorry if i missed something
A:
you didn't miss much.
I must ask how would cross drilled AND slotted rotors fair?
Also with nascar cars they don't really need to brake and F1 cars don't need rotors to get heat away because the whole car moves air to parts that need it eg. the rotors.