A&Q about 350Z
Q:
1st sorry about mine english ....
I love to soup up an engine that have hiden power with-in...so this is just my little sharing for all the beginner to they N.A type engine.
some of you might just add a turbo to the engine (I don't like turbo) and i don't explian why over here!
ps: sorry to V-TEC car owner .....no V-tec info
1. Port polish the engine Hand (intake and exit port):
done the fine job as you can , it take time and the right tools
2.Use high quality air filter (K&N ,HKS etc) it cost a little bit higher then the standard filter and you can cleaning them and re- use ....
3.replace the exhaust pipe front and rear ...sure you will lost the touqe (if the resisdent is too low) if you using 4-2-1 or 4-1 please remember do not using a "direct" rear exhaust(noisy) silencer .
4.Use high quality Ignition Wires & spark plug (Nology , DENSO Iridium etc) or you can add this type of Ignition system if you want ! (see the pic below)
5.Not satisfy? then change the engine management computer !!
6.Use 0W-40 spec engine oil , You need more "rev"? so try the 5W/10W-40 too (Motul, HKS, etc)
there are many kind of way to " tune" the engine with 3rd party ECU ,you just have to look for more option before you buy
note : I do not take any responsible , if yours engine or car "get killed" .so please grab more information before you do something to yours car and the engine !
A:
Any NITROUS (Not N.O.S.) is the cheapest bang for the buck. I hate to admit it, but it would probably give you the most power for cheapest. However, its probably not the most reliable horsepower...
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While I agree to some extent, it depends entirely on the engine. Big block chevys never had the greatest heads from the factory. Neither did small block Mopars. Japanese engines tend to focus incredible amounts of engergy on how to maximize reliability with sub-standard metallurgy. Germans try to focus on how they can improve electonic prowess with perfect metallurgy
Some vehicles can benefit from an air intake modification, but for the most part they are noisy and add a couple horsepower at best. In extreme cases like the restrictive intake on 92-97 Camaros, they could experience as much as 12-15 hp from changing out the restrictive factory intake.... but we're talking 5.7L V8, here. On a small four-banger it might be good for 2-7 hp.
An aftermarket ECU is only going to gain you a few HP unless the engine has been mechanically modified outside of the parameters that the stock ECU is capable of controlling. A stock ECU can usually be leaned out and the ignition curve tweaked to produce a few more horses because the factory is conservative to prevent warranty claims. A stock ECU delivers 14.7:1 just like the aftermarket ECU, so unless you have done extensive street mods that take it outside of its adjustable limits, an aftermarket ECU won't provide a single extra pony.
Using an aftermarket ignition will help a little and some are worth the money as far as bang for buck. If nothing else, they will increase the effective average BMEP of the engine, making more effective use of the fuel you give it. Their main benefit is increased MPGs, but often times power can be increased as well. Its much like a campfire... The wood you have on it will give off the same amount of heat, its just; do you light the fire with a match or a blowtorch?
DO NOT use thinner oil in the quest for more power. Oil viscosity recommendations are based on bearing surface area, bearing clearance, effective RPM ranges, reciprocating weight, and volume of bearing clearance tolerances. Changing to a thinner oil for power is not a wise choice. The extra 2 hp you gain will come at the cost of potential massive failure of engine components.
Porting and polishing heads is again dependent on what engine we're discussing. My stock smog heads on my 454 flow 250 cfms, which is enough to support 450 hp. There is no benefit to porting them on my 400-horse engine since they are not the limiting factor. Contrast that with an Oldsmobile 307 with heads that can only support about 190 hp and its obvious that engine would really wake up with some better flow.
Exhaust? Wow, huge disparity here. Some stock exhausts are too large and some are so restrictive that replacing them can free up 30 hp.
The secret is to not fall into the cheapskate mentality of "what can I bolt on?" and start thinking about how can I make the engine perform? This just bugs me. Some engines are hindered by a specific restriction. The Oldsmobile I mentioned needs better head flow. It doesn't need an intake, exhuast, or ECU. Its all in the heads. Mazdas have terribly antiquated cam lobe designs. You can't fix that with an ECU or head porting. You need to find your INDIVIDUAL ENGINE'S WEAK POINT and fix it, not just randomly paste on some external modifications.
Design the engine first, THEN choose peripherals that work. When I bought my most recent project, I didn't randomly slap on fancy bling parts, I removed the engine, sent it for machine work, chose parts that were more accurately matched to my requirements, and built the engine for the 400 hp and 500 ft-lbs I wanted. When it was done, I knew I needed a certain fuel requirement, a minimum of exhaust size and flow, and that's it. The engine determines which one of these modifications you need to make, not the other way around.
People keep talking about N/A performance, but that is built INSIDE the engine, not with chrome headers.
Peter i's post may be a reflection of the sport-import's opinion on the aftermarket world, but as he says in his own post, please be very careful before doing any of this to your own car. Learn first, then fix what's restricting your performance.
A:
Standing Ovation For Curtis
:Claps:
He dun did ya wrong thur...
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Oh, and Peteri. you forgot Cams. Very simple swap out swap in and can gain ALOT of power for the money with just some loss in idle smoothness. and if you are building a torque big block you can get low RPM cams and have humongo torque gains. And V-Tec and other variable valve timing systems would give optimal power increases. V-Tec is a great thing...its just overly exagerated on what it can do. Every performance modificaiton has its limits.
A:
To curtis73
THanks !! I love yours article ! (always read yours topic & your reply )
And I love american cars & most of the 70's classic and some jap Datsun/toyota model , because those time all the engine got "Pure power" !! I think most of the people born in 60/70'S agree with that !!
To CBFryman
I know , but that's need an expert to do it.. one mistake is a dead or alive to the engine . So i did not write out about the cam gear timing or the High cam things .
I always love N.A. engine , the sound , The pure power give you a smooth feeling and confident . Most important, it apply to daily use perfection!
I want to add some more :
To me "compression ratio" is playing a nasty part to NA engine (Turbo charge engine is 8.5:1) so that after 9.0 ~12.0:1 is needed to tune up the NA engine .second that You need to do something to the cooling system (Use high pressure radiator cap "1.3Kg" and better rubber pipe) even a low temperture thermostat will do the job .For heavy mod engine you will need a bigger aluminum radiator . Also add a oil cooler will give a good result .
To the Ignition power up part , I tested few wire and plugs here and there . It can really add 7hp~9hp to low power car and 10~12hp for performance car. add a Ground cable may helps too.
Focus on the Air intake area , you can D.I.Y. yours own modification parts to Direct the cool air from out side the hood & send to the filter or do a aluminum piping /soft or hard (THat's why turbo need an inter-cooler
)
To the air /fuel ratio , Do Not re-mapping the ECU. Unless you do a heavy "mod" to the Cylinder head or air intake component . because the injector is the metter (You need to change a bigger C.c. injector
) or not you may <<blow!>> yours engine dual to the incorrect A/F ratio (too much of air and less fuel) especially in high speed ,Because like turbo engine for example .they need more fuel to cooling the Cylinder head/Block to it's working temperture!
any comment are welcome
A:
hey guys, check this out !!! I love "non electronic" Carb
if i cAN GET MY HAND ON THOSE MONSTER !! i DON'T WANT ANY TECHNO cOMPUTER SHIT!!
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Ca...Ca....Carbu....Carbuta-tor...Carburator??
WTF is THAT???
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get one set and try it
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is that bolt on or am i going to have to remove my current throttle body? how much HP should it add?
lmao
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Usually ,It has an "unlimited" power you need . but ....
1.Do not over-rev
(knowing yours engine rev limit)
2.Adjust the correct A/F ratio & idle(easy to do with some tools and eyes/ear+finger
)
tIPS :by pointing yours finger to the rear exsauht pipe , you will feels that it's warm & wet (Not so wet ...) mean 100% fuel burning or you may need a CO tester
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OK , an example (4AG with 2 Carb) ENJOY !!
mikuni setup for a porshe 924
45MM Weber Side Draft Kit (4AG)
Keihin FCR ...
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peter i I think CBFryman might be having a bit of a joke
There is something very intoxicating about a good carberator set up.
As much as I loved the endless power and response of my old Honda B16a, it never quite sounded the same as my rather less sprightly twincarb Triumph 2500TC.
A:
I know ,thats why i puting lots of icon in my message . I hope this topic share the fun of "tuning" the engine and learn from each other .
Btw, I do not hate honda V-tec , Just The fact that I am a Toyota supporter
A:
I hate to bring back a slightly aged thread but I didn't want to start one on an already discused topic.
How would you got about finding what is restricting your engine other than modifying it and going "hmm... well that added 3 hp, maybe next time i won't spend 300 bucks on that."?