NZR: ? for you C3 Stingray guys!

A&Q about 350Z
Q:


Found a '77 Stingray for sale with a 350, 4 spd, 130k miles, T-Tops, and New tires, all for 5500. It runs extremely well.
My question to you is:
Is there anything I should watch out for before actually getting serious about it, mechanically or cosmetically?
1976 280Z
Draw-Through Turbo, 10 PSI, 4 Bbl Holley, E88, L28 (Flat), 10:1 CR, 5 Spd
1974 Corvette Stingray:
350, 400 Automatic, T-Tops, 8.5:1 CR, 78,000 Miles
1994 Acura Integra:
1.8L, 5 Spd, 189,000 and Counting!

A:


OH yea the paint is fairly new as well.
1976 280Z
Draw-Through Turbo, 10 PSI, 4 Bbl Holley, E88, L28 (Flat), 10:1 CR, 5 Spd
1974 Corvette Stingray:
350, 400 Automatic, T-Tops, 8.5:1 CR, 78,000 Miles
1994 Acura Integra:
1.8L, 5 Spd, 189,000 and Counting!

A:


Vette's have a common problem with the metal frame rusting out. Take it to a place where you can get it on a lift and inspect it closely. While it's up there check the rear drive shaft u-joints for slop and look to see if anything is leaking fluids. Also look over the body for small cracks in the fiberglass.
$5,500 seems to be a low ball price on this. I looked at a website and there was around 80 of these, most were around $8,000 or more...
Best of luck...
Had a 77 280Z and two 70 510 Wagons once upon a time...

A:


Ya get rid of the rear suspension if its stock.
This whole world smells bad, I'd buy another if I had
back what I paid for another mother@#$%@# in a motorcade

A:


if you must have a '77, here are some things to look for:
Brake calipers leak unless they've been resleeved. Probably been done to this one already, but ask.
Check all rubber seals - doors and t-tops. They are not cheap to replace and not fun to install.
Check headlight operation. They're raised and lowered pneumatically, and vacuum leaks are no fun to track down.
Check door springs. They're cheap S hook thingies that often break and are not replaced. Inexpensive to replace and easy to install, but if you check them you'll look like you know what you're talking about.
The 350 is pretty bullet proof, but it would be nice if this car had decent maintenance records.
If numbers matching is your thing, there's a lot more stuff to look for - beyond the scope here. You'd need to buy some books.
There's an entire universe of aftermarket and replacement parts available out there, so if you're good with regular guy handtools, you can do some work on old Corvettes.
I'm by no means an expert on C3 Corvettes, but I know a little. Good luck.
PS: If you are just getting into these cars, it pays to move slowly. Buy quickly, and you may end up with a bucket of work with very little actual driving pleasure.
'78s are cooler than '77s, and '68 - '72s are cooler still. If you want less years, the '82s are pretty neat, too.

A:


how can 78 be cooler than 77? 77 was yhe last of a body style the last one with a little back window after that they all had that big ass bubble back window. 77 is wayu cooler. besides i had a 77 from 78 till80 and i loved it so im biased!
____________________________________
1980 280ZX coupe
2001 maxima
1994 F150 4x4 van works custom truck
170000 and never needed mech repairs
1996 ford explorer -they cant all be good

A:


Not an unexpected response.
We all love OUR years most, don't we?

A:


yes but mostly i loved it because it was mine !!!
____________________________________
1980 280ZX coupe
2001 maxima
1994 F150 4x4 van works custom truck
170000 and never needed mech repairs
1996 ford explorer -they cant all be good

A:


First question that needs to be asked is,why are you considering buying it?
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