A&Q about 350Z
Q:
so, over spring break I replaced my starter. Worked good for a while, then about 2 weeks later it failed again. Oh, it was a Bosch btw. So then I thought that it was just a bad starter. So I got a used starter w/ 60k on it (OEM). So I put it on and it worked. I starteed the car about 7 times till it failed again. So, I've come to the conclusion that there is something wrong in the electrical system and it's causing the starter to go bad.
However, my friend believes that it's just sheer coincidence and bad luck that this is happening.
My ? is this: What electrical tests can I do w/ my DVOM to diagnose the ROOT cause?
Thanks
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280zxt: N42 Intake, 67mm throttle body, bov, mbc, alluminum fuel rail, RR FPR, high flow cat, tokico shocks, eibach springs.
A:
On the small wire to the starter ("S" Terminal) disconnect it and see what voltage you have between it, and transmission case ground.
If it is below 9V then there may be a problem in the wiring harness.
PLEASE NOTE THIS IS WITHOUT CRANKING THE ENGINE! THIS IS WITH THE WIRE DISCONNECTED AND CHECKING THE SIGNAL FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH TO THE CONNECTOR THAT GOES ON THE TERMINAL.
The same test can be done while cranking, and similar voltages apply, but you will see a lower voltage because battery volts drop whille cranking and can really drop the numbers.
In any case, if the signal voltage without cranking is low (for sure 9V is a drop dead point, 11.5 is sketchy...) then you can try making sure there are better engine grounds, but chances are great you will need an auxillary relay like the 280Z's and 260Z's need when their harnesses degrade and the "S" Terminal voltage drops.
This has been posted in diagram form how to wire a Ford 6V truck solenoid as an intermediate switching relay to provide full voltage to the "S" terminal for starting. You can use a standard Bosch headlight relay, but IME the Ford 6V unit works better because it only needs 3V to make it close, leaving you YEARS of starting left before the wire is so bad it needs to be replaced!
I would find it unlikely that two starters "failed"... Usually the problem is with signals and voltages to the thing, not in actual component failure.
ALSO, in some cases, the ignition tang had failed inside the switch, or the switch itself had failed causing problems to the starter. Check if you have 13.8V coming out of the proper terminal/wire on the steering colum, and compare it to what you have at the "S" Terminal. If it varies greatly, it's going to need the Ford Solenoid Mod.
Good Luck!
People Are Idiots, Just look around here and you will see!
Tony D: "Knowledgeable but Caustic"... rationull
My brother from another mother calls himself "Willie D"
Post Edited (May 5, 1:23am)
A:
If you're getting more than 6 volts (like the possible low 9) to the Ford solenoid, wouldn't it burn that solenoid up pretty quick?
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77 280Z - TEC3 Engine Management, Coil Packs, 3.1 Stroker, 550CC injectors, tripple throttle body FI intake, MSA Stage II Cam, etc...etc...
79 Fairlady - Rusty
81 280ZX - DD
A:
Nope,
Matter of fact, if you have to crank your Z for more than 15 seconds at a time, that might be part of a starter failure problem in and of itself!!!
People Are Idiots, Just look around here and you will see!
Tony D: "Knowledgeable but Caustic"... rationull
My brother from another mother calls himself "Willie D"
A:
I thought I would let you guys know that I found the prob. I did a voltage drop test between the neg. of the battery and the body of the starter and it was showing 11V so I knew it was a ground prob. So I took a jumper cable and hooked it up from the neg. of the battery to the engine and the car started!! So then I checked the ground cable and I found that where it's hooked up to the body, it's ruste (not visible till you take it off). So I took that and hooked it up to the engine instead and now it works fine!
Thanks a lot guys
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280zxt: N42 Intake, 67mm throttle body, bov, mbc, alluminum fuel rail, RR FPR, high flow cat, tokico shocks, eibach springs.