A&Q about 350Z
Q:
like the title says i need new rotors and want drilled/sloted ones.i was going to buy the rotors from msa but then i found these on e-bay. has any one used these and are they any good . pros and cons please. i also loked at the power slot on tire rack. im lost :( oops i forgot this
76 280 all stock exept full bushings,qwuik knuckles,tokico struts&springs,3-2 header,k&n cai,msa sway bars,konig rewinds with toyo proxis ra1.
78 rust bucket. (4 sale!)
2000 v-dub mk4 jetta vr6
2005 titan 4x4 with nismo cai,banks exhus
Post Edited (Jul 26, 7:51pm)
A:
Cons?
You'll loose braking surface area so you'll loose friction, so you'll loose stopping power.
Pro's?
They look kinda pretty.
A:
powerslot is good. brembo too.
'82 turbo zx
A:
go with slotted ...stay away from drilled, i've heard they can crack! good luck! ps i agree with darkstarrocker! rjc
A:
www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20623
70 240Z - Factory original.
71 240Z - 2.8 flat top pistons,44's mikuni's,5spd.
73 240Z - Race car. Rebello 2.4,R190 Nissan Comp LSD,5spd.
83 280ZXT Stroked , Turbo'd,TWM ITBs,720cc,TEC2,3.7LSD.
92 300ZX- Daily Driver/track.
Post Edited (Jul 26, 8:49pm)
A:
i have the solid brembos with green stuff pads on it now but they were on the car when i got it and the rotors are totally groved up. i put new green stuff pads on because the old one were shot ( got extra pads with the car) the last owner autocrossed it for a while. any way maybe i should stick with the brembos and next time i need pad get yota 4x4 calipers 2 . found calipers at pep boys for 37 bux each.
76 280 all stock exept full bushings,qwuik knuckles,tokico struts&springs,3-2 header,k&n cai,msa sway bars,konig rewinds with toyo proxis ra1.
78 rust bucket. (4 sale!)
2000 v-dub mk4 jetta vr6
2005 titan 4x4 with nismo cai,banks exhus
A:
i hear the green stuff pads kinda sucked. The metal master pads are the ones to go with. i think you can get them from kragen
-John
Absolute Z Club
L.A./Orange Counties
73 240, PnP E88, webers, coil-overs, 17's, "Bolt-In Power Steering", train horns; you know, the norm... "Yea its green, but the chicks love it"
A:
I would go with slotted. Cross-drilled can crack if the holes are not chamferred (sp) or beveled.
'79 280zx (gone - head-on collision)
'73 240zt - currently in pieces
A:
i just ordered the Mountain japanese rotors from my local jap/german parts store and the PBR MMs with new wheel seals. steves280 said the Mountain rotors were very good if you could find them, i got them for $30 each and 32.50 for the pads. the guy at the shop told me today they came in and say made in japan all over them lol.
82 NA 5 spd
77 4 spd
A:
I believe the drilled rotors only crack if you use the brakes hard alot, and since they are slotted as well, there isn't as much drilling, so I'd think they'd be less prone to cracking than a fully drilled rotor. Drilled rotors also reduse unsprung weight slightly, and the holes might also cool them a wee bit better. Heck, they use them on alot of racecars, so they can't be all bad...
- GC Coilovers, Eibach 225/250 race springs, Illuminas, XR3000, other odds-n-ends.
A:
Z06C5R wrote:
> I believe the drilled rotors only crack if you use the brakes
> hard alot, and since they are slotted as well, there isn't as
> much drilling, so I'd think they'd be less prone to cracking
> than a fully drilled rotor. Drilled rotors also reduse
> unsprung weight slightly, and the holes might also cool them a
> wee bit better. Heck, they use them on alot of racecars, so
> they can't be all bad...
>
They aren't bad, but they are designed more for racing applications. Racing slicks are great for traction, but I wouldn't want them on my street car.
While Hybrid77Z offered a reason not to use slotted or cross-drilled rotors, I noticed that no one offers a compelling reason to use them. (How much unsprung weight do you really lose by having cross-drilled rotors?)
If you're having problems with brakes heating up too much under normal driving conditions, make sure your calipers are working right. Also check your driving style.
Compare the cost of normal rotors to the slotted/cross-drilled rotors and ask yourself what you truly gain.
_________________
Maybe some day I'll get back to doing some real work on my car.
Darn, I never got the cookie for post #1000.
- A great place to search for answers
A:
huh... if you race, the slots and holes help scavenge gases produced by the pad, away from the pad. street cars dont need this. Alot of race cars dont need this, unless we're talking some serious speed. In most cases, normal rotors with some decent pads are the best way to go. I would honestly just stick with stock, + some steel braided brake lines for better pedal feel, and better fluid like Motul 600. works for me!
'82 turbo zx
A:
thanks for the input every one. i do have steel braided lines, but i dont know what fluid is in it seeing that i have had the car for a few short months. if i stick with the brembos (stock) rotors ,ditch the green stuff pads and get better fluid like motul 600 brakes would be good? should i go 2 the yota 4 piston setup and metal master pads? for the price of msa's sloted/drilled rotors i could get brembos & 4x4 calipers.
76 280 all stock exept full bushings,qwuik knuckles,tokico struts&springs,3-2 header,k&n cai,msa sway bars,konig rewinds with toyo proxis ra1.
78 rust bucket. (4 sale!)
2000 v-dub mk4 jetta vr6
2005 titan 4x4 with nismo cai,banks exhus