A&Q about 350Z
Q:
I am still at the point of banging my head repeatedly on my desk to decide if I want to swap an RB25DET or an L28ET into my '73 240. One issue with regards to choosing the L6 is the streetable/reliable/daily drivable HP/TQ you can get out of one. Ultimately, I would like to get somewhere between 375-440whp out of one. The RB would attain that much easier, but also much more expensive.
Regarless of which engine, initially I am going just to swap either one out stock, so I can drive it around for a little bit and work any bugs out of the swap before I start tuning/modifying.
What I'm getting at/asking for, is to see who all has a (reliable) fire-breathing, high HP L28 in their car. Of those who do, what all have you done to it, what (external and internal) components/accessories/mods you have and roughly how much $$ you have in the engine. Any overbored (2.9-3.0) and/or stroker L28ets out there? I'm trying to get a ROUGH idea of how much money I will ultimately need to dump into an engine. If it's going to cost thousands upon thousands of dollars to build a 'little-children scaring' L28, then I might just splurge for the RB.
God must love stupid people, he made SOOOOO many of them!
A:
splurge, I'm sure in the end -- you'll end up spending about the same..
May want to speak with Jeff P about it...
"The Z's disease won't make anything turn black, wither, and fall off, nor turn cancerous." - Tony D
"Take it to a track where BOTH drivers mean business or it's just one sided mechanical masterbation." - Hybrid77z
A:
I have NOTHING special but an old L28ET with 120K miles on it, intercooled, and a $400 rebuilt TO4B Turbo, with FMU, and a cheap custom exhaust from a local shop. The L28ET is totally bolt in and can be done in a weekend. The ONLY downfall of the L28ET decision is that the stock fuel injection uses an AFM, and is not really programmable.
I make an easy 265RWHP and 300RWTQ at 15psi. My air intake is restrictive due to the AFM and I am at the limit of the stock injection with 65psi fuel pressure.
The car drives as if it were factory built.
With a fuel/spark system, pistons, headgasket, nice exhaust/intake, 375RWHP would be a walk in the park.
A:
I want to do the L28 just for the simple fact that it's pretty much a direct bolt in. I wouldn't have to worry about fabbed (or hard to acquire) engine/trans mounts with the L6.
I would LOVE to get an L28ET and bore and stroke it like briann510s (but with FI and a turbo).
Thanks for the info cygnusx.
God must love stupid people, he made SOOOOO many of them!
A:
why dont u just buy brians engine and fi and turbo it? not his but look what happens when u search http://classifieds.hybridz.org/showproduct.php?product=2771&cat=17 or maybe call rebello and see what they can do for u. truly it comes down to how much time u want to put in it. if u got the money u can really mod the hell out of anything just u gotta have the time and patience to work on it.
white knuckle driving
Post Edited (Jul 24, 2:41pm)
A:
i say L28eT ..
cheaper.. parts are easier and cheaper to find.. 350rwhp is stupid fast in a little 240z.. and youll LOVE the sound and old school performance of the Z
F54/P90a w Megasquirt and a Holset Hy35W
3" hand made exhuast, Large NPR intercooler, big injectors, Tokico Illuminas, Arizona Z Springs, BIG sway bars, Innovate Wideband
www.putfile.com/proxlamus
A:
I'd also sa L28et for a darn great streetable car.
If you want insane power/torque, then go V8 and have a great streetable car.
The real issues with streetability happen when you try to get above 2hp per cubic inch. Getting 400HP out of 168 cubic inches is less of a street car and more of a tempermental racer (IMHO).
A:
L28, either that or get an LSwon.
A:
I initially thought about the V8 swap (an SBC 327 mated to a T56) but will all the low end TQ of those, don't you have to do a bunch of frame strengthening to keep the engine from twisting it up...in addition to any fabrication of mounting it and the transmission, plus the V8 swap is ridiculous $$$ compared to a simple L28 swap.
260turbo,
Thanks for the listing but it will be several months before I start looking for an engine for the Z. I have to get the suspension, brakes and undercarriage done first. No need to search for an engine just yet.
Anyway, I was just looking to see what mods the L28et owners/swappers have on their L6s and how much power they have out of them and roughly how much it cost.
God must love stupid people, he made SOOOOO many of them!
A:
My car is right at the low end of where you say you want to be, 372 WHP, I would not hesitate to drive my car daily, if it had A/C, in fact I do drive it everyday I can, weather permitting.
The long block in my car is pretty basic, 87.5mm J+E pistons, ARP head studs and HKS 1mm headgasket, small Schnieder cam, and minor porting (port matched intake and exhaust) nothing all that fancy.
The turbo and fuel systems are where I spent the "big" money, I run a T-04S 60-1 turbo, it's a full T-4, with a .58 P-trim turbine and a 60-1 compressor, this turbo hits like a freight train at about 3800rpm, I've run as much as 22 PSI... I also run a Turbonetics Racegate, with an open 1.5" "screamer pipe" on a much modified factory exhaust mainfold, with a 3" SS304 mandrel bent downpipe and mild steel 3" mandrel bent exhaust, with a dyno max bullet race muffler, it's nice and throaty just cruising, but the open WG will get you noticed...
I run a custom built intake manifold with a 60mm TB, by James Thagard, I really don't have any data on how much of an improvement it made, as I changed loads of stuff all at the same time, it sure looks good all polished up thoough.
Fuel system starts with a fabbed aluminum 12 gallon fuel cell (removed the spare tire well) with all Aeromotive stuff, A1000 pump and regulator, 10 and 100 micron filters, 1/2 inch feed and 3/8 return aluminum hardline, all flexible lines are all stainless A/N. 550 cc RC engineering injectors. a Haltech E6K controls fuel and spark, with an MSD 6A and HVC coil and 8mm wires. I really like the E6K on an L engine, super easy to set it up and tune it, it also has several outputs to control other functions as well, I use it to run a shift light and cooling fan. I run a Griffin aluminum radiator for a small block Camaro, and a Spearco 1080 cfm intercooler with 2.5" piping
I also run an aluminum flywheel and ACT 6 puck "street/strip" clutch, MSA short throw shifter on an '82 n/a 5 speed, with a 3:70 R-200 LSD.
My car also has ground control coil overs, camber plates and sectioned struts, with Arizona Z car wilwood brakes...
I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff, but that's the basic set up. I made the power in my sig on pump gas at about 21 psi, there's certainly more in it, as it's tuned now, AFR's are at 10.8:1, fat and happy, just like me!
the car is a blast, I run a profec B boost controller also, and I like the fact that with a push of a button, I can go from 6 psi (234 whp) to 17 psi (348 whp) to 21 psi (372 whp), a set up like this takes some knowledge to assemble and tune, but it's worth it IMO. I have somewhere around 18-20K in the entire car, all done myself, over several years, so it's maybe not a budget approach, but I am very satisfied with it. I'm considering flairing the car for some bigger wheels and tires, I run BFG 225/50/16 KD's on 16x7 panas now, and they fight a losing battle at high boost, but the car is so clean I'd hate to cut it for tire clearance.
your plan of getting the Chassis in shape first as far as brakes and suspension is a sound one, I wouldn't want to drive a stock chassis 240z with my drivetrain in it...
I also couldn't imagine needing more power than this in a purely street driven car, wanting maybe, needing..... that said I am building a new long block right now, with a much more agressive cam, port work and some other tricks :^)
73 240z, turbo'd, haltech E6K, 550's, spearco. new and improved, now with 60-1 T4, 372 whp and 365wtq
Post Edited (Jul 27, 2:07am)