A&Q about 350Z
Q:
well i got the chance (harrah) to trash it hard on a couple good roads on the way home tonight. after slowing for tight corners from big speed about 3-4 times they went a bit odd (not fade tho).
so im going to do it this weekend.
ill let you know how it goes. :D
btw mine has 280s, cross drilled and i think the pads are pagid, with fluid changed for generic stuff a few months back (before then they'd fade within a minute of hard use)
A:
Could have fooled me, there was some healthy depate at the beginning over if it would do any harm or not
Some of the points I was attempting to cover were:
On wet motorways where you don`t brake for maybe quite some time you`ll affect them more than `normal` - greater resistance to stopping given a direct 70mph blast of air / water.
All my own cars have needed a certain amount of temperature in the brakes to work at their best. Even in spirited driving brakes cool down naturally, so unless there is something seriously wrong with the set up I don`t see the need for ducting on a road car that is admittedly not driven that hard in normal use. Track work, as has been said is another matter entirely.
Good luck with mod, suggest you leave it in place for twelve months so as to cover as many differing circumstances as possible.
Cheers
A:
Seeing as James has come back with a reasoned argument I thought I'd pipe up again
My understanding is pads have a range of operating temps - std ones will get up to the correct range pretty much straight away but will fade after repeated hard usage. So naturally you can buy uprated pads which have a higher operating temp which will take more abuse, but this doesnt mean its a good thing - this is just one way of tackling the problem.
Part of what is taking the heat away from the pads is are the discs, they are like big heat sinks, therefore the cooler you keep the disc the more heat you are able to take away from the pads (and therein the amount of heat transfered to the fluid).
So I still think that keeping the discs cool is inherently a good thing and I cant see how it will make any difference in normal driving as you cant cool the discs anymore than they would have been in ambient - it will only serve to help you when you need it.
I hope this makes sense and look forward to any further debate (if I havent gone to bed...)
Cheers,
Pad
A:
what's the complete setup of the brakes?
from the discs right back to the servo......
A:
Seeing as James has come back with a reasoned argument I thought I'd pipe up again
My understanding is pads have a range of operating temps - std ones will get up to the correct range pretty much straight away but will fade after repeated hard usage. So naturally you can buy uprated pads which have a higher operating temp which will take more abuse, but this doesnt mean its a good thing - this is just one way of tackling the problem.
Part of what is taking the heat away from the pads is are the discs, they are like big heat sinks, therefore the cooler you keep the disc the more heat you are able to take away from the pads (and therein the amount of heat transfered to the fluid).
So I still think that keeping the discs cool is inherently a good thing and I cant see how it will make any difference in normal driving as you cant cool the discs anymore than they would have been in ambient - it will only serve to help you when you need it.
I hope this makes sense and look forward to any further debate (if I havent gone to bed...)
Cheers,
Pad
Me ... `reasoned`, must be slipping
A:
I'm sure we could descend into mudslinging if you prefer... ;)
Cheers mate,
A:
Can't wait for the results.
A:
I run brake ducting on the track Golf but never have on the road. I can't comment on its efficency as I have not used the car without it so I cannot tell if it had any effect.
You substitute good pads and fluid though!