A&Q about 350Z
Q:
now the colder damper mornings are setting in, the car is starting to suffer from this, mk1 1.1 on a carb. doesn't do it till about 10 miles into the journey, has a paddy, let it rest for five minutes and then carry on as normal
take it off and clean it or will some carb cleaner sprayed down it clear it out?
A:
Jon,
I suspect that cleaning out the carburettor won't help, because the problem is that the carburettor isn't being kept warm enough.
The two things that I have done to cure this happening on several MK2s with this problem were:
1. Assuming your MK1 is supposed to have one, check that the warm air ducting that comes from behind the exhaust manifold (connected to a little heatshield) and leads to the intake is not missing, and is fully intact. I think that people chuck these hoses away thinking that they're there just for decoration, but I found that fitting this ducting cured carb icing on one of our MK2s.
2. Check that any electric heaters on your carburettor are working. On the MK2, there were two of them - a heater underneath the carburettor in the airflow, and another little heater mounted on the outside of the carburettor, at the front.
My experience is with MK2s but hopefully one of the above solutions will help on a MK1.
Trev
A:
i think the hot air hose could do with replacing, as i think its original and looking a bit sorry for itself.
electric heaters??? will check it in daylight
A:
Yes, that ducting is quite important I think.
A:
Yes, that ducting is quite important I think.
trip to the car shop then
A:
In the words of steve creswell- don't just buy the cheap aluminium ducting, buy the proper vw insulated stuff.
A:
Yep. And the VW stuff costs a second mortgage as well, unfortunately
Just curious - what's wrong with the aluminium ducting? I guess the VW stuff provides better insulation for the warm air inside?
A:
need a few other bits for it, so it will be worth doing right
A:
So steve creswell says , the aluminium ducting isn't insulated so the air cools down to much before it reaches the carb.
A:
So steve creswell says , the aluminium ducting isn't insulated so the air cools down to much before it reaches the carb.
Steve Cresswell is a stupid c**t (sue me!), and the velocity the air being sucked in at is so much that to lose any significant temp, you would need to be running a jet engine...... Yes put in the ducting, NO worry about it being insulated!
A:
Steve Cresswell is a stupid c**t (sue me!), and the velocity the air being sucked in at is so much that to lose any significant temp, you would need to be running a jet engine...... Yes put in the ducting, NO worry about it being insulated!
why do you think i need to p*ss in my radiator
the jets were running hot that day
A:
I like this TSC bloke!
A:
Everybody does, until they meet me - I'm a cụnt in real life.
A:
my mrs's mk2 used to do it. the flap in the airbox was knackered at it was stuck sucking in cold air permanentley. I just put the warm air pipe from the manifold onto the cold air bit. a bodge but it worked a treat!
A:
What about some exhaust heat wrap to keep Mr Creswell happy
Is the manifold water heated on the Mk1? If so, check that it's flowing, and not bunged up with crap.
A:
My mk1 1.3 had un insulated pipe from factory, so has nearly every 1.3 mk2 I've owned. Works a treat and is cheap from halfies if you cant find it anywhere else.
A:
You can get the stuff from GSF. It is an air cooled part. 50mm air ducting.
A:
well bought some of that ali tubing for the job,
what a load of sh*t it was, taking it back on monday,
removed what was left of the old hose, go to fix on new shiny hose, fit one end no probs, go to "bend" it round the block to the air box and it falls to bits in my hands, un coils itself. take it off and try and coil it back up again, this stuff is the sort that doesn't like to go back to its original shape and my effort just leaves it more open. trying to get it to go back just makes it worse,
so throw that on the floor in disgust and go about fixing the old hose to put that back on.
A:
I bought the proper stuff from GSF i think .. the insulated stuff bends loads better
thats probably why Steve reccomended it
A:
without insulation the hose will let the air cool in the airbox a bit, not much though. But even if it does that will be compensated for by the temp sensor (vac switch) in the airbox so causing the hot air flap to deflect a bit further. I can't see what problem you'd have with cheapo stuff, other than that you describe!!
my wisdom is from a mk2, so a mk1 may be different.
an annual job for me at about this time is to free up the flap in the air intake. It has usually seized solid after a summer of no use and needs a bit of 3in1 to ease it up.
plus the electric heaters, I've had the channel heater fail on me causing a breakdown at 3am on a cold and misty devonshire moor