A&Q about 350Z
Q:
i think my hall sender is playing up...and id like to fix it on the cheap
i was wondering ...do hall senders wear with high miles or can they fail at anytime??
are cheap /non bosch ones rubbish to be avoided? (thinking of the ebay £50 new no name dizzys)
are they all quiet similar on vw's? any chance i could buy a non 16v dist and rape it for parts
edit ,heres the thread with possible hall sender issue
A:
£50 just for a hall sender????? what car is this regarding?
for a vavler you would be better off spending a few more quid and gettind a brand new distrubutor and hall sender.
Im not totally familier with idea of just replacing the hall sender as that would mean taking the thing apart.....although £32 on own on ECP or £60 for a dizzy inc hall sender.
just out of interest what symptons do you have? a loose/broken hall sender ie when the connectors under the dizzy cap break can cause all sorts of running problems. is the dizzy clicking at all thats another sign its on its way out.
from my experience (3dizzys on 2cars) they can go at anytime not really at certain millage
A:
my symtoms are a random massive loss of power/misfire and the rev counter goes bonkers
for what ive seen the prices are £100 for a vag dizzy , £50 for a no name ebay new one, £32 for a no name sender kit
A:
prices have fairly went up since last time i got a hall sender of euro!!
u can get a bosch dizzy out of eurocarparts for about £90 exchange - id go for that
splitting the dizzy down to replace the hall sender can be very irratating, especially trying to drive the pin out of the back of the dizzy
A:
id stump up the extra £10 for a vag one if i have to , thing is i aint really got £100 to throw around hence my questions
ive also got a badly leaking but whould be working dizzy...might try and cobble together a working one
A:
well u could take the hall sender outta the leaky one. sometimes though the hall sender wires are very fragile
A:
or sealing the leaky one... a partial bodge to get you around for a bit. really hate idea of splitting hall sender an dizzy for the exact reason gambit said.. sometimes just looking at those dam wires makes them want to break- far too fragile once they get a bit of age on them!
another option- the old scrappy!!! get one from a variety of audis, seats as well as dubs, honets you would be surprised how many toleado 16v are floating around in scrappies
A:
test the sender first.
turn on the ignition but dont start the car.
if you put a multimeter lead on the middle pin of the sender (which is the signal out pin), and the other lead on your battery negative terminal (0v) the sender should alternate between no resistance, and infinite resistance (turn the engine slowly by hand to check this - jack one wheel off the ground, put it in 5th, turn the wheel)
hope this helps
scott
A:
It's VERY VERY unlikely that a hall sender itself will fail intermittently, or 1/2 to cause this sort of thing:
my symtoms are a random massive loss of power/misfire and the rev counter goes bonkers...
More likely a loose connection somewhere.
A:
Aye, but the old hall senders have the wires exposed inside the dizzy, so can be the "loose connection" - the later ones are all enclosed.
A:
Aye, but the old hall senders have the wires exposed inside the dizzy, so can be the "loose connection" - the later ones are all enclosed.
yeah, or touching/shorting on something.